The Elizavegan Page

Lemony Glazed Tofu

2012-01-28T00:00:00.002-05:00

This came about because a lot of my vegan foodie friends were posting on blogs and FB about the delicious dinners they were making for Chinese New Year. This made me A. hungry, and B. inspired, and it just so happened that I had several different glazed tofu recipes bookmarked. Unfortunately, I didn't have all of the necessary ingredients for any one of them, so I decided to just head into the laboratory - um, kitchen - and experiment with what was on hand. And if I say so myself: YUM. This was seriously as good as anything you'll find in a restaurant, with the added virtues of packing a lot less fat and sugar and being much cheaper. Best of all, you don't have to go anywhere to enjoy it: just steam some brown rice, stir fry a few veggies to go alongside, and you can welcome the year of the dragon without ever having to put on pants! Xīn Nián Kuài Lè!

Lemony Glazed Tofu
Ingredients
~ 3/4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
~ 1/2 cup each: vegetable broth, white wine
~ 1/4 cup each: soy sauce, agave syrup
~ 1 tbsp. hot sauce, or to taste (I use Sriracha)
~ 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
~ 1 tsp. prepared mustard
~ 2 lbs. extra firm tofu, drained and pressed
~ 1/2 cup cornstarch
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, ginger, chili powder
~ Oil for frying
~ 2 tbsp. each: minced garlic, grated ginger
~ 1 cup chopped scallions (about 4 big ones)
~ 2 tbsp. sesame seeds

Directions
~ In a bowl or beaker, whisk together the first 6 ingredients (lemon juice through mustard) and set aside.
~ Slice the tofu in half horizontally, then slice into approximately 1/2-inch strips.
~ In a shallow bowl, combine the cornstarch, salt, ginger, and chili powder. Add the tofu and toss to coat.
~ In a large skillet, heat about 1/4 cup oil (I used canola), and fry the tofu over medium-high heat until crisp; about 3 minutes each side. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate to drain and set aside.
~ Discard all but about a tablespoon of the oil, and add the garlic and ginger to the skillet; cook over medium heat for about a minute.
~ Add the scallions and sauté briefly and begin adding the the lemon juice mixture, stirring constantly. Once all the liquid is added, lower the heat and let the sauce cook another twenty minutes or so, until slightly thickened and reduced.
~ Add the reserved, fried tofu to the sauce, flip a few times to coat, and continue cooking another 5 minutes.
~ Meanwhile, toast the sesame seeds over medium heat in a dry skillet for about 2 minutes, until golden but not too brown. Stir the toasted seeds into the tofu mixture, combine thoroughly, and serve hot over short grain brown rice.

Bihari Green Beans and Spinach Masala

2012-01-23T00:00:00.005-05:00

This is a very free adaptation of a recipe I stumbled on while looking for something to do with a metric craptonne of green beans; I think of it as a sort of South Asian green beans almondine. It was originally made as a side dish, but it would be a perfect dinner on its own with some spicy pickle, a pile of basmati rice, and maybe a handful of chickpeas thrown in if you're looking for some extra protein. The spinach was a last-minute addition because I wanted something properly green to balance the tempeh dopiaza it was accompanying, and the results were so pleasing that I highly recommend you do the same. (As for the cilantro, I find that it adds a certain "something," but haters can feel free to skip it or substitute something less objectionable.)

Bihari Green Beans and Spinach Masala
Ingredients
~ 1/4 cup thinly sliced almonds
~ 1 tbsp. canola oil
~ 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, ground cumin, ground coriander, sweet paprika, garam masala
~ 1/2 tsp. red chili pepper flakes (more to taste)
~ 1 14 oz. can coconut milk (regular or "lite," but I suggest going for the gusto here)
~ 1 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
~ 1 10 oz. package frozen spinach, thawed
~ 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro, or 2 tsp. dried (optional)

Directions
~ In a dry skillet, toast the almonds over medium heat until light golden. Remove from the pan and set aside.
~ In the same skillet, heat the oil and sauté the onion, garlic, salt, cumin, coriander, paprika, and chili pepper flakes over medium heat about 5 minutes, until the onion is tender and begins to brown.
~ Stir in the coconut milk, the green beans, and the spinach. Mix well, bring to a boil, and reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in the toasted almonds, cover the pan, and cook until the beans are tender and the sauce thickens a bit, about 10-12 minutes.
~ Serve hot, garnished with the cilantro (if not a hater).

Cullen Skink

2012-01-16T00:00:00.008-05:00

The idea for this recipe came from one of my most beloved sources of culinary inspiration: the food section of The Guardian. Over the years, this has been the source of many of my most perverse veganizations of traditional British foods, but this one - courtesy of what Felicity Cloake claims is her "perfect" interpretation of a classic recipe - probably has the most awesome name. When my first son was little, he inherited a bunch of those National Geographic wildlife cards from an older cousin, and his favorite animal was the stump-tailed skink. Obviously, this was because it has pretty much the funniest name ever, and for awhile there it took nothing more than the words "stump-tailed skink" to ensure a storm of hilarity. Fortunately for my herbivorous agenda, Cullen skink has nothing to to do with the Tiliqua rugosa (a member of the Scincidae family of lizard native to Australia, featuring a heavily armored body and - you guessed it - short, stumpy tail), but is instead a thick, delicious soup of Scottish origin.

Traditional Cullen skink is made from smoked haddock, potatoes, onions, leeks, and milk or cream. According to that renowned brainbox, Wikipedia, it is "a local speciality from the town of Cullen in Moray, on the north-east coast of Scotland...described as 'smokier and more assertive than American chowder and heartier than classical French bisque.' The name is partly (and indirectly) derived from Gaelic. The first element refers to the town of Cullen in Moray (a place name of Gaelic origin). The second element, 'skink,' is a Scots word for a shin, knuckle or hough of beef which has developed the secondary meaning of a soup, especially one made from these. The word skink is ultimately derived from Middle Dutch schenke 'shin, hough,' also the root of the English word shank. Others have hypothetized that it comes from the Middle High German word for a weak beer respectively liquor or essence." All this is very well and good, but how this "shank" became a smoked haddock remains - at least to Wikipedia - a mystery.

Basically, Cullen skink is like a multi-cultural ménage à quatre between bouillabaisse, English cockaleekie, New England clam chowder, and the old-school potato leek soup I used to make from Mollie Katzen's Enchanted Broccoli Forest. My version incorporates elements of all three - minus the animal products - to produce a thick, creamy, smoky soup that is perfect on a cold winter evening when the snow is falling, the wind is howling, and (at least in our house) the dog is snoring under the kitchen table, and the cat has once again stolen your chair. The fresh parsley stirred in at the end adds a nice "green" note to this podgy bowlful of starchy goodness, and makes one completely justified in having a big slab of crusty bread alongside. (NB that the original recipe includes flaked, smoked haddock, and if you're interested in recreating that, you might try freezing some smoked tofu and then flaking it into the soup late in the process. I didn't have any on hand, but might do it that way another time for curiosity's sake. If anyone tries it, please let me know what you think!)

Cullen Skink
Ingredients
~ 5 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 4 tsp. bouillon (I swear by Better Than Bouillon's No Chicken Flavor)
~ 2 large bay leaves
~ 1 tbsp. Liquid Smoke
~ 1-2 tsp. dried dulse or other seaweed
~ 2 tbsp. vegan margarine (Felicity calls for a "knob" of butter)
~ 2 large leeks, cleaned and chopped
~ 1 large onion, diced
~ 1 tsp. salt (less depending on the saltiness your stock)
~ A few grinds of fresh black pepper
~ 4-5 potatoes, diced
~ 1/2 cup chopped, fresh parsley

Directions
~ In a large beaker, combine the soy milk, bouillon, bay leaves, Liquid Smoke, and dulse. Cover and microwave on high about 4 minutes, then set aside for at least an hour for the flavors to infuse. (You can also do this in a pot on the stove, obviously.)
~ In a large, deep pot, melt the margarine over medium-low heat and add the leeks and onions. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper, cover the pot, and allow to sweat (without coloring) until softened, about 10 minutes.
~ Add the diced potato and stir to coat. Pour in the soy milk mixture and bring to a simmer. Cover the pot again and cook about 20 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender.
~ Remove from heat, fish out the bay leaves, and allow to cool slightly. With an immersion blender (or in a food processor), partially puree the soup - you don't want it too chunky, but neither are we going for a completely smooth puree.
~ Reheat the soup, stir in the chopped parsley, and serve hot with crusty bread.

Tempeh Dopiaza

2012-01-10T11:34:00.018-05:00

This is my new BFF, Lord Ganesha: he's a Hindu deity who represents the power to remove obstacles and ensure success in human endeavors. Part human and part elephant, his hybridity signifies qualities useful and important to both: his large head symbolizes wisdom, understanding, and a discriminating intellect, his wide mouth represents the human desire to enjoy life in the world, and his big ears remind us that the wisest person is one with a great capacity to listen and to assimilate ideas. Among my gifts this past holiday was a splendid statue that - along with his accompanying incense - is a most welcome addition to our home, and as I head back for my second semester at Tufts (whose mascot just happens to be an elephant), it's nice to feel like Ganesha has my back.

I decided to feature him in this post because it's a new year, and this is my first curry of 2012! Ordinarily, we cook a lot of Indian food at our house, and after the barrage of traditional podginess that informs the whole Thanksgiving-Christmas juggernaut, it's nice to get back to popping up some mustard and cumin seeds. Dopiaza is a South Indian preparation meaning "(having) two onions," and it often features meat or prawns. Obviously that is never going to happen in my house or on my blog, but the dense, chewy texture of tempeh is particularly well-suited to stewy dishes like this, so when my partner returned from a trip to Toronto with several packages of the best commercial tempeh on the planet Earth (http://www.tempeh.ca/) it was time to have a go at it.

As is usually the case, I took a few traditional recipes and bent them to suit my personal will/taste/cupboard ingredients, and I also opted to chop the onions that form the sauce rather than puree them, for a bit more texture. But if you should prefer a smoother sauce, rock on: the time to do so is after adding the ginger and mint, and before the lemon juice. As with many curries, this gets better the longer it sits and the leftovers are even better than that first plateful, so it's fortunate that this makes a lot. We had it with Bihari green beans masala (recipe to follow) and saffron rice, and it made two ample dinners for 3-4 people and a couple of lunches besides. Yum.

Tempeh Dopiaza
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. canola oil, divided
~ 2 large onions
~ 1 small red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, cayenne pepper
~ 1 tsp. each: cumin seeds, mustard seeds
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, fenugreek powder, ground coriander
~ 1/2 tsp. each: asafoetida, turmeric
~ 1 tbsp. sugar
~ 1 tbsp. grated ginger
~ 1 tsp. dried mint
~ 1 tbsp. lemon juice
~ 1 tbsp. vegan margarine
~ 1/2 cup water (more as needed)
~ 1 8 oz. package tempeh, cubed

Directions
~ Chop one of the onions into thin crescents. In a skillet, add 1 tbsp. of the canola oil and fry the onions for a minute or two over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper, the cayenne, 1/2 tsp. of salt, and continue cooking about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.
~ Cut the second onion into small dice. In the same skillet, heat the remaining tbsp. of canola oil over medium flame and add the cumin and mustard seeds; cook for about a minute, until they just begin to pop (be careful - don't shoot your eye out!).
~ Add the diced onions, the fenugreek, coriander, asafoetida, turmeric, sugar, and the remaining salt. Cook over medium heat with occasional stirring until the onions are very soft (about 10-15 minutes).
~ Stir in the ginger and the mint; cook for another minute or two.
~ Add the lemon juice, 1/2 cup water, the margarine, and the cubed tempeh.
~ Mix well to coat, cover the pan, and continue cooking for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens and browns a bit.
~ Add the reserved fried onion and bell pepper and mix throughly. Taste for seasoning and cook another 5 minutes.
~ Serve hot over rice and/or with naan bread.

Black Pepper Biscuits

2012-01-02T10:59:00.024-05:00

Happy new year! Here we are in the future - ain't it grand? Today's illustration is brought to you by the dual influences of the Sci-Fi Channel's annual Twilight Zone marathon and the lingering memory of the black pepper biscuit I had last week at Veggie Galaxy. "I'm Talkie Biscuit, and you're going to eat me!"

Anyway, a few days after Christmas, we finally got around to checking out this new addition to Cambridge's Central Square: a diner with a classic, old-school chrome and formica aesthetic and an all-vegetarian/vegan menu, and we were only sorry we hadn't done so sooner. I wanted breakfast (tofu omelet w/portobello mushrooms, caramelized onions, and homefries), while my partner opted for a black bean burger. This arrived topped with two of the most epic onion rings I have ever stolen from another person's plate; so good were those onion rings, in fact, that I need to go back for dinner so I can have the house-smoked tofu fried in the same batter.

But, as noted above, what I really want to talk about is that biscuit, which may have been the most delicious one I have ever tasted. Considering my devotion to the herby specimens at True Bistro, this is saying' summat, and I've been excited to try my hand at recreating them for a week now. So I fired up the Google, cast about in my usual way, and decided that Bobby Flay's recipe looked plausible with a few substitutions: within the hour we had a ginormous batch of flaky, baked goodness cooling on the counter. I dialed back Bobby's pepper quantity a bit since my youngest isn't the hugest fan, but you should obviously adjust such things to suit your own personal taste. Not only did this recipe produce great biscuits, it is ridiculously easy; it had never occurred to me to use a food processor for biscuit dough, but I'll definitely do so from now on. So what are you waiting for? Get those fiery biscuits in the oven!

Black Pepper Biscuits
Ingredients
~ 2 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
~ 4 cups all-purpose flour
~ 4 tsps. baking powder
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, baking soda
~ 1/2 tsp. sage
~ 4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper (more if you like)
~ 12 tbsp. cold vegan margarine or shortening, cut into small pieces

Directions
~ Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
~ In a beaker, combine the soy milk and the vinegar, mix, and set aside for about 10 minutes.
~ In a large food processor, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sage, and 3 tsp. of the black pepper and pulse to combine.
~ Scatter the margarine or shortening over the top of the flour mixture and pulse a few times, until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
~ With the food processor running, add the soy milk/vinegar mixture in a thin stream, until the mixture just begins to come together.
~ Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured counter, and roll into a 10 by 12-inch rectangle about 3/4-inch thick.
~ Use a 3-inch round cutter - I actually use the floured rim of a water glass - to cut out biscuits, and place them on a non-stick baking sheet. Press together the scraps of remaining dough, and repeat process until you've used it all up. (I got 16 biscuits from this recipe; your mileage may vary.)
~ Brush the tops with a little soy milk mixed with the remaining teaspoon of black pepper.
~ Bake at 450 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly golden brown.
~ Remove from the oven and serve hot as a side dish, with gravy, as part of Tofu Benedict, or (as I did), all by themselves.

Savory French Toast (or Got My Mojo Workin')

2011-12-29T00:00:00.001-05:00

I've really been enjoying getting back in touch with my kitchen mojo this past week or so, and the (temporary) leisure has awakened my (temporarily) dormant urge to experiment. Today's brunch/lunch was a perfect example, because it's something I've been wanting to try but for which I have had neither time nor energy: French toast that isn't sweet!

When it comes to breakfast foods, I rarely see the appeal in sugary things if there's a savory alternative. Don't get me wrong; I like a stack of pancakes with maple syrup just fine, but I'll get a whole lot more excited if those are potato pancakes or (better yet) black pepper biscuits with gravy. Every time we go to a place that does vegan brunch - of which there are increasingly numerous examples these days, thanks be to god - there's a plethora of French toast offerings featuring stuff like berry sauces, whipped cream, and (what??) chocolate chips, but there's a conspicuous lack of a savory version of this ever-popular breakfast staple. So it became apparent that if I wanted such a thing, I had to make it my own damn self.

To my knowledge, the closest non-sweet analogue is a dish served in the UK made from stale bread soaked in milk and beaten egg, fried in butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper. They call it by the refreshingly straightforward name "eggy bread," but since my version is ovum-free I've opted for "savory French toast" despite its cross-Channel spirit. The beauty of this is its versatility: we had ours with sautéed mushrooms and Hollandaise sauce (recipe below), but it would be great with asparagus, garlicky greens, roasted tomatoes, or anything you please. Then again, it would be fine served as is, or as an accompaniment to roasted potatoes, baked beans, stewed tomatoes, or tofu scramble. Bon appétit!

Savory French Toast
Ingredients
~ 1.5 cups plain soy milk
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, paprika, marjoram, dry mustard
~ A few generous grinds of fresh black pepper
~ 2 tbsp. corn starch
~ 1 cup chickpea flour
~ 8-10 slices stale or lightly toasted baguette
~ Earth Balance for frying (sub cooking spray if you're feeling virtuous/healthy)

Directions
~ Preheat oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit.
~ In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except the bread and whisk thoroughly. The batter doesn't have to be totally smooth, but everything should be well combined. Place two slices of the bread in the batter and let it sit for a few minutes.
~ Heat a large skillet over medium heat, and melt about a tablespoon of margarine (or coat with cooking spray).
~ Add the soaked bread to the pan and cook on each side for about 3-5 minutes, until miraculously brown and crispy; as you cook the soaked slices, put two more in the batter to await its turn in the pan.
~ Adding more margarine or cooking spray as necessary to prevent sticking, continue until all the bread is cooked, transferring the finished slices to a baking sheet to keep warm in the oven.
~ Serve hot as is, or topped with sautéed mushrooms, asparagus, leafy greens, or whatever you like. If you're feeling fancy, you might also drizzle on a nice sauce like this hollandaise (think of it as the new maple syrup).

Hollandaise Sauce
Ingredients
~ 3/4 cup raw cashews, soaked and drained
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance
~ 2 tbsp. flour
~ 2 cups plain, unsweetened soy (or other non-dairy) milk
~ 1/4 tsp, saffron threads
~ 1 tbsp. garlic, minced
~ 2 tbsp. nutritional yeast
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, turmeric, dry mustard
~ 1 tsp. tarragon
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ Juice of 1 lemon

Directions
~ In a food processor, combine all but the EB, flour, tarragon, and lemon juice. Blend thoroughly until smooth.
~ In a saucepan, melt the margarine over low heat, then add the tarragon, saute briefly, then add the flour to make a roux.
~ Raise the heat to medium, then begin gradually adding the blended cashew mixture, stirring continually.
~ Cook about 5-7 minutes, continuing to stir, until heated through and thickened; if it gets too thick, add a little plain soy (or other) milk to thin it out to the consistency you like.
~ Remove from heat, stir in the lemon juice, and serve hot.

Neo-Classic Green Bean Casserole

2011-12-26T00:00:00.009-05:00

I'm baaaaack! Having successfully completed my first semester of PhD School (as we like to call it), I'm now on break for a few weeks, which allows me to feel totally justified in rattling some pots and pans. This is A Good Thing, since A. I love to cook and have really missed it, and B. Christmas dinner happens at our house. So, like this multi-tasking lady about to baste what appears to be a levitating Tofurky, I donned my pearls, cocktail dress, and festive holiday apron to reassert Absolute Sovereignty over the domestic space. (Except that my festive apron reads, "Come, woo me, woo me; for now I am in a holiday humour, and like enough to consent." It's also a full rather than half-apron, because I am a slob.)

This year's menu included maple glazed carrots, roasted potatoes, mushroom gravy, Field Roast in puff pastry, and - something new! - green bean casserole. Now, having grown up in these great United States, I could hardly have reached adulthood without being aware that many people consider this an indispensable part of a holiday meal, but it never appeared on the table when I was growing up. (Ditto for those canned sweet potatoes with marshmallows on top.) In fact, until yesterday, I'd never even tasted green bean casserole because, with all due respect to the makers of Campbell's Soup, French's Fried Onion Rings, and whatever other packaged foodstuffs comprise this seasonal delicacy, it sounds kind of gross.

So obviously I had to make it, right? But what I had in mind was a sort of bionic green bean casserole. I wanted to make it better than it was: better, healthier, less...canned. I hunted around online a bit, and finally settled on two recipes as general models: one from Martha Stewart and one from someplace I've already forgotten, which doesn't really matter since I'm constitutionally incapable of following a recipe to the letter anyway. Basically I got some ideas for proportions, cooking times and temps, etc., and then made it taste the way I wanted. And guess what? The way I wanted turned out to be excellent! So excellent, in fact, that what started as a quixotic, semi-ironic twist on an American "classic" will very likely be making future appearances on my own British/Greek/Canadian holiday table. And not a can opener in sight. God bless America, and God bless us, every one! (NB that the sweet potatoes with the marshmallows will in all likelihood remain unexplored territory, because I mean damn.)

Neo-Classic Green Bean Casserole

The Filling
Ingredients
~ 2 lbs. green beans, trimmed and snapped in half
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance or other vegan margarine
~ 1 large onion, diced
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 lb. mushrooms, sliced (I used baby bellas)
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, sage, marjoram
~ 1 tbsp. vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
~ 2 tbsp. flour
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 2 cups mushroom gravy (homemade is always good, but Imagine brand is vegan if you can't be arsed)

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 400 degrees fahrenheit and coat a 9 x 13" casserole with cooking spray.
~ Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with cold water and ice cubes; set aside.
~ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and the beans, return to a boil, and cook 5 minutes, until they are bright green but still retain a bit of crunch.
~ Drain the beans in a large colander and transfer immediately into the ice bath to stop them from cooking. (This is called "shocking," and I imagine it must be as applicable to the green bean experience as it is for those crazy feckers who go skinny-dipping every New Year's Day.)
~ Drain the beans again and set aside.
~ In a large, deep skillet, melt the margarine and sauté the onions over medium heat about 4 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, mushrooms, the seasonings, and the Worcestershire sauce. Cook another 6 minutes or so, until the mushrooms have given up their liquid.
~ Add the flour and the nutritional yeast, stir to coat, and pour in the gravy.
~ Add the cooked green beans, combine thoroughly, and remove from heat.
~ Transfer to your prepared casserole and make:

The Topping
Ingredients
~ 1 medium onion, chopped
~ 2 tbsp. flour
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 1 cup panko crumbs
~ 1/4 cup vegan parmesan (optional, but nice)
~ 1 tsp. each: paprika, parsley

Directions
~ Toss the onions with the flour to coat.
~ In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat and fry the onions in batches, turning frequently, until crisp and golden (not brown!). Remove to paper towels to drain and cool.
~ In a food processor, combine the drained, cooled onions with the remaining ingredients; pulse a few times until blended.

And now....
~ Sprinkle the topping evenly over the green bean mixture, cover with foil, and bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes, until bubbling.
~ Remove the foil, raise the heat to 425 and cook another 5-10 minutes, until the topping is lightly browned. (Watch to be sure it doesn't burn.)
~ Remove from the oven and allow to rest a few minutes before serving.

Adopt a turkey!

2011-11-18T00:00:00.008-05:00

Apologies for the lack of recent posts; things have been busy, busy, busy! Hopefully, once the winter break arrives, I'll have a bit more time to cook (and to blog about it), but right now it's time for my annual plug for Farm Sanctuary. As the air gets cooler, the days get shorter, and the holidays approach, lots of people start thinking about turkeys. And we are no exception: we love them! With this year's round of festive occasions - and meals - practically on our doorstep, it's disturbing to think about all the animals who suffer so needlessly to fulfill people's skewed notions of what constitutes a "celebration." Every autumn, we gird our loins for the inevitable onslaught of moronic advertising, masturbatory foodie rhetoric, and ham-handed - you should excuse the expression - "jokes" about tofurky, People Eating Tasty Animals, etc. (To say nothing of the whole "But turkeys are stupid" rationale: #1. Wild turkeys are not stupid! They have mad skills appropriate for turkeys; the fact that these aren't necessarily mad skills according to human standards is irrelevant. #2. If intelligence is the criteria for who gets eaten in our society, there should be a lot more cannibalism. Just sayin'.)

Anyway. Several years ago, a post by Susan over at Fatfree Vegan Kitchen, inspired me to do something more positive than snapping off the television and muttering darkly to myself: participating in Farm Sanctuary's Adopt-A-Turkey Project! To quote their web-site: "Since 1986, this program has encouraged people to save a turkey at Thanksgiving through sponsorships that help us rescue animals and provide care for them at our sanctuaries, as well as educate and advocate for turkeys, and other farm animals, everywhere." This year, we're sponsoring Elizabeth, the avian namesake of my historical heroine, and for a mere $30 (probably about the same price as one of those wretched, pathetic carcasses filling the freezers of the local grocery stores this week), you can sponsor one of her friends, or even adopt a whole flock for $210. So go ahead, adopt one of these fine specimens of the genus Meleagris gallopavo; you know you've always wanted to!
http://www.adoptaturkey.org/

Savory Autumn Crumble

2011-10-24T00:00:00.003-04:00

Be forewarned that this is some seriously autumnal stuff, MoFoers. It's the brainchild of a late-October Sunday when, after a weekend of nonstop reading for me and nonstop grading for my partner (oh, midterm: what exactly the hell is your problem?), I was A. starving, and B. simply incapable of spending one more minute doing anything work-related. Based of necessity on the contents of my refrigerator and larder, the end result was like the product of a wholly unsanctified - yet passionate - union between a savory casserole and a dessert: the dish that dare not speak its name! (As you might expect, it's really good, regardless of whatever trash the Republicans might talk about it.)

Savory Autumn Crumble

The Filling
Ingredients
~ 1 cup brown lentils
~ 3 cups vegetable broth
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 tbsp. vegan margarine (I use Earth Balance)
~ 1 big onion, diced
~ 2 large carrots, diced
~ 2 stalks celery, diced
~ 3 medium potatoes, cubed
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, sage, marjoram, parsley
~ 1/2 tsp. each: thyme, rosemary
~ Lots of black pepper
~ 10 oz. package mushrooms (about 4 cups sliced)
~ 3 medium apples, cubed
~ 1 tbsp. vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 3/4 cup frozen peas
~ 2-4 tbsp. flour

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a casserole dish with cooking spray.
~ In a saucepan, bring the stock to a boil and add the lentils. Cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 30-40minutes, until the lentils are tender. Remove from heat and set aside. (NB the lentils will cook more quickly if you've soaked them for an hour or two beforehand.)
~ In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil and margarine and sauté the onion, celery, and carrot over medium heat for about 3 minutes.
~ Add the potatoes, garlic, and dried seasonings, and cook another 5 minutes, stirring often.
~ Add the mushrooms and apples, stir to combine, and then cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes, until the mushrooms have given off their liquid and the vegetables are getting tender.
~ Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, the frozen peas, the lentils with whatever is left of their cooking liquid, and the flour. (You want enough flour to make a gravy, but not so much that the filling becomes too solid; remember, it still has to bake!)
~ Transfer the filling to your prepared casserole while you make...

The Topping
Ingredients
~ 1.5 cups flour
~ 6 tbsp. cold vegan margarine or shortening (again, we like EB)
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, sage, black pepper

Directions
~ In a bowl, combine the flour, salt, sage, and black pepper.
~ Chop or grate the cold margarine into the flour mixture, then rub the whole mess together with your fingers until it resemble coarse crumbs.
~ Sprinkle the crumble mixture evenly over the filling, then bake uncovered for 25-30 minutes, until the topping is crisp and golden.
~ Allow to cool briefly before serving.

Great Pumpkin Banana Bread

2011-10-21T12:48:00.019-04:00

I feel like I'm totally tanking on MoFo this year, but in the current circumstances, it's a wonder we aren't living on toast (yet). This afternoon I had a few over-ripe bananas and a bit of time between a pile of reading and jumping into my car (again) to collect my kid from his school and then drive to mine, so I thought I'd whip up some bread. Here in New England, October=pumpkin, so I tossed in some of that, too, and within an hour: voila! Banana pumpkin bread: quick, easy, and yet completely sincere.

Great Pumpkin Banana Bread
Dry Ingredients
~ 2 cups white whole-wheat flour
~ 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
~ 1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
~ 1 tsp. baking soda
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, cinnamon
~ 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
~ 1/2 - 3/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)

Wet Ingredients
~ 2 very ripe bananas
~ 1 15 oz. can pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 1 tsp. vanilla extract

Directions
~ Coat a loaf pan with cooking spray, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit.
~ In a mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients.
~ In a separate bowl, mash the bananas, and then stir in the remaining wet ingredients.
~ Add the wet mixture to the dry, and combine thoroughly, being careful not to overmix.
~ Transfer the batter to your prepared loaf pan, and bake at 350 in the center of the oven for 45-60 minutes, or until a knife or toothpick inserted comes out clean. (Ovens vary; mine tends to be a bit slow, so keep an eye on things.)
~ Allow to cool in the pan at least 20 minutes before slicing.

Easy Peasy White Beans with Autumnal Veggies

2011-10-13T00:00:00.006-04:00

Actually, it's even easier than it looks. (What? I'm talking about food, for heaven's sake!) Beans, spinach, sweet potatoes, garlic...what more could you need or desire for a delicious, nutritious, easy meal on a busy weeknight? Now take your head out of the gutter and start cooking, why don't you?

Easy Peasy White Beans with Autumnal Veggies
Ingredients
~ 1 large sweet potato (or two small ones)
~ 1-2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 red onion, chopped
~ 2 generous tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1/2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, marjoram, tarragon, parsley
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 1/2 cup white wine
~ 1 lb. chopped, frozen spinach
~ 1 15 oz. can white beans, drained and rinsed (I used cannellini)

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit.
~ On a baking sheet, coat the sweet potato cubes in a little olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook at 375 degrees for about 20 minutes, tossing once around the middle of the roasting time, until brown and quite tender, but not falling apart. Remove from the oven and set aside.
~ In a large, deep skillet, sauté the onion in the olive oil over medium heat for about 7 minutes, until just starting to brown.
~ Add the garlic, mushrooms, and dried seasonings; cook another 5 minutes, until the mushrooms have given off most of their liquid.
~ Pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, and cook another minute.
~ Add the spinach, and cook another 5-10 minutes, until you have a thick stew.
~ Stir in the beans and the roasted sweet potato, cook another minute or two until everything is heated through, and taste for seasoning.
~ Serve over rice or couscous.

Super-Fantastic Noochtastic Kale

2011-10-09T00:00:00.003-04:00

You know you've been meaning to, anyway, and this is the perfect way to do it! This has long been my established, go-to approach to leafy greens, and while it hardly qualifies as a "recipe," it's so good that I figured I'd finally type it up for the Good of Humanity. (It's also MoFo, and I need fodder for blog posts, dammit!) This works equally well with spinach, collards, chard, or whatever greenery strikes your fancy, but I really think that the sturdiness of kale (or, as we like to call it, "Nature's Wonder Food") is particularly toothsome when coated in garlic and nooch. So no more excuses: get out your wok and get ready for a massive infusion of iron and B vitamins. Whoo-hoo!

Super-Fantastic Noochtastic Kale
Ingredients
~ 1-2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 big bunch kale, cleaned and chopped
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1/2 tsp. salt
~ 1/3 cup nutritional yeast (or more depending on the quantity of greens and your nooch jones)

Directions
~ In a large, deep skillet or wok, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the garlic for a minute or so.
~ Add the salt, and begin adding kale in batches, stirring until it just wilts.
~ Continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly (you can add a little water if it starts to stick).
~ Stir in the nutritional yeast and cook another minute, making sure that all the greens are coated.
~ Remove from heat and serve immediately.

"Chicken" Pot Pie

2011-10-06T00:00:00.008-04:00

My belief that any foodstuff is better when encased in pastry is well documented; hence my abiding love for the pot pie. This quintessence of comfort food seemed an appropriate menu choice this week, since I've managed to contract the dreaded First F$#%ing Cold of the Season (in fact, as I type this, my heroic partner is bustling about in the kitchen making soup, garlicky kale, and - YES! - biscuits, while keeping me supplied with medicinal draughts of hot gin and lemonade. If it's good enough for Dickens, it's good enough for me). Anyway, I made this pie on the weekend, and it provided enough food to sustain us all for several days..."indeed, as Mrs. Cratchit said with great delight...they hadn't ate it all at last!" There's something wonderfully homey about a ginormous casserole on a chilly evening, which makes this a definite go-to for when you're craving a plateful of that "Mummy loves you" feeling. (A feeling that will be pleasantly exacerbated by the addition of mashed potatoes, glazed carrots, and/or sautéed green beans. Would Mummy lie to you? About food? Exactly.)

"Chicken" Pot Pie
The Fillingsp
Ingredients
~ 3 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1 cup raw cashews
~ 1 tbsp. vegan bouillon (I recommend Better Than Bouillon's "No Chicken" flavor)
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 cups chopped onion
~ 1 cup sliced carrots
~ 1/2 cup diced celery
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: sage, marjoram, thyme, parsley
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 3 cups sliced mushrooms
~ 1 lb. seitan, cubed
~ 1 cup frozen peas

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a 9 x 13" casserole with cooking spray.
~ Combine the soy milk and the bouillon and heat to nearly boiling; add the cashews and soak for at least an hour (the longer the better). When the cashews are nice and soft, puree the mixture in a food processor and set aside.
~ In a large, deep skillet, sauté the onions, celery, and carrot over medium heat for 5 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, dried seasonings, mushrooms, and seitan, and cook about 5-7 minutes more, stirring frequently to make sure things don't stick.
~ Stir in the pureed cashew mixture and the peas, cook another minute or two, and transfer to your prepared casserole.
~ Set aside to cool while you make...

The Topping
Ingredients
~ 2 cups all-purpose flour
~ 1/2 cup cold vegan margarine or shortening (I use a frozen stick of Earth Balance)
~ 8-12 tbsps. ice water

Directions
~ Put the flour in a mixing bowl, and cut or grate in the cold margarine or shortening. Mix with your fingers until you get a texture like course crumbs.
~ Add 8 tbsps. of the ice water and mix; add as much additional water as necessary to make a rough, slightly sticky dough.
~ Form the dough into a ball, then turn it out onto a floured board, and use a rolling pin to shape it fit your casserole dish. Carefully transfer the pastry on top of the filling, crimp around the edges to seal, and poke a few holes in the top with a fork.
~ Brush the top with a little plain, unsweetened soy milk, and bake at 375 for 20-25 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown.
~ Allow to sit briefly before serving.

Risotto with Roasted Squash, Spinach, and Saffron

2011-10-03T00:00:00.008-04:00

Happy MoFo, MoFoers (and non-MoFoers)! Sorry to arrive a bit late to the annual party, but things are kind of cuckoo-bananas around here this fall. Even so, I'm going to keep my hand in, and try to post at least once or twice a week (and with all the amazing vegan bloggers participating - over 700 this year! - I'll never be short of inspiration). And so, without further ado...I give you a hearty, filling risotto: just what the doctor ordered on a chilly autumn evening. We happened to have butternut squash on hand, but acorn, pumpkin, or even sweet potato would do as well; it's really the saffron that gives it that certain special something. Since this recipe has an orange vegetable and leafy greens, we had it as a one-pot dinner, but it would also make a nice side dish for a more elaborate meal like a Sunday dinner or - GASP! - Thanksgiving, which is just around the corner.

Risotto with Roasted Squash, Spinach, and Saffron
Ingredients
~ 2 lbs. butternut squash, peeled and cut into 3/4" cubes
~ 6 cups strong vegetable broth
~ 1 tsp. saffron threads
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 cups chopped onions
~ 2.5 cups arborio rice
~ 1/2 cup dry white wine
~ 1 8 oz. package fresh baby spinach, chopped (about 4 cups)
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance or other vegan margarine
~ 1/3 cup vegan parmesan or nutritional yeast

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit.
~ On a baking sheet, coat the cubed squash in a little olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook at 375 degrees for about 30 minutes, tossing once around the middle of the roasting time, until the squash is brown and quite tender. Remove from the oven and set aside.
~ Pour the stock into a pot and place over medium heat. Keep it very hot while you cook the risotto, but be careful to reduce heat if it comes close to a boil.
~ Toast the saffron by placing it in a metal spoon, then set it over a low flame to toast until fragrant. Add the toasted threads to the simmering broth.
~ In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil and sauté the onion over medium heat until softened but not browned, about 7-10 minutes. Depending on how salty your stock is, you may or may not want to add a teaspoon of salt at this point.
~ Turn the heat to medium-high, and add the rice. Stir constantly for a couple of minutes, until the grains are coated and giving off a toasty aroma.
~ Add the wine, stirring constantly until it has been absorbed and making sure to scrape up any bits that have stuck to bottom of the pan.
~ Ladle in about a cup of the stock, and stir constantly until the liquid is absorbed. Continue this way until all of the stock has been added and the rice is creamy, but still has a bit of a bite to it.
~ Stir in the roasted squash and the spinach, and cook another minute or two.
~ Add the Earth Balance, the vegan parm or nooch,, and a few grinds of black pepper.
~ Mix thoroughly, remove from heat, and serve immediately.

Kale and Tempeh Coconut Curry

2011-09-24T00:00:00.001-04:00

Once again, I tender my sincere apologies for being the World's Worst Blogger, but this whole "coursework" thing translates to a lot more time reading than cooking (or even thinking about cooking). That said, we still need to eat, and we don't want to get rickets or scurvy or that wholly-imaginary-but-nevertheless-dreaded Vegan Brain Fog I keep hearing about. So it was that last night I stopped dallying with my new boyfriend, Geoffrey Chaucer - see above for his picture; he is SO HOT! - just long enough to whip up this quick, easy, veggie-packed curry, which not only kept body and soul together, but it was pretty tasty, too. The super settee, back I went to my joly lovere; ther is namoore to telle.

Kale and Tempeh Coconut Curry
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. canola (or other) oil
~ 8 oz. tempeh, cubed
~ 1 tbsp. soy sauce (or Bragg's liquid aminos, if you're a hippie)
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 tbsp. each: chopped garlic, grated ginger
~ 1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
~ 1 large (or two small) sweet potato
~ 1 large head kale, cleaned and chopped
~ 2 14 oz. cans coconut milk
~ 2 tbsp. mellow white miso
~ 1 tbsp. Thai red curry paste
~ 1- 2 tsp. hot sauce, or to taste

Directionsuce.
~ Cook the sweet potato in the oven or microwave until it's cooked enough to cut into chunks, but not falling apart. (It took about 8 minutes to nuke a gibloodynormous specimen; your mileage may vary with a less gargantuan tuber.) When it's cool enough to handle, cut it into 1" chunks and set aside.
~ Toss the tempeh cubes with the soy sauce, then add the olive oil to a large, deep skillet and sauté for a few minutes over medium high heat, until lightly browned on all sides. Remove to a plate and set aside.
~ Add the onions, garlic, ginger, and bell pepper to the skillet, and cook about 5 minutes.
~ Add the sweet potato and the kale - you'll probably need to do the latter in batches - and stir until the kale just wilts.
~ Combine the coconut milk, miso, curry paste, and heat until nearly boiling. Add to the vegetables, turn the heat to low, and cook another 10-15 minutes.
~ Add the tempeh cubes and the hot sauce, stir to combine, and serve hot over rice, noodles, quinoa, couscous, or whatever wacky grain takes your fancy.

Unusually Yummy Tofu Stir-Fry

2011-09-12T00:00:00.005-04:00

Yes, I know what you're thinking: what kind of helpless, hapless hippie needs a recipe for a tofu stir-fry, right? But the fact is - as many a vegetarian can attest, having been obliged to make do with the pedestrian version offered by many restaurants as the sole concession to the non-carnivorous - all stir-fries are not created equal. This very quick, very easy meal is a case in point. It derives its particular yumminess from the combination of sweet, salty, and spicy flavors, and from the simple, extra step of frying the tofu separately, then setting aside to be added to the veggies at the last minute, thereby ensuring that it retains crispiness and structural integrity, and that you will have a happy mouth and tummy. Everyone's a winner!

Unusually Yummy Tofu Stir-Fry
Ingredients
~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, drained and pressed
~ 4 teaspoons cornstarch
~ 1/2 cup vegetable broth
~ 1 tbsp. agave nectar
~ 2 tsp. sesame oil
~ 1 tbsp. canola oil
~ 1 heaping tbsp. each: minced garlic, freshly grated ginger
~ 2 large carrots, juliennned
~ 2 cups mushrooms, stems removed and caps sliced
~ 3 cups bok choy, cut into bite size pieces
~ 4 large scallions, thinly sliced at a diagonal
~ 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (more to taste)

Directions
~ Cut the tofu into 1/2 inch cubes and pat dry. Sprinkle the tofu evenly with 2 teaspoons of the cornstarch.
~ In a small bowl, whisk together the broth, soy sauce, agave, sesame oil and remaining cornstarch. Set aside.
~ Heat the canola oil in a wok or large skillet over medium high heat.
~ Add the tofu and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
~ Transfer the cooked tofu to a plate, then add the garlic and ginger to the wok and cook until fragrant (about 30 seconds).
~ Add the carrots and mushrooms; stirfry for about 3-4 minutes.
~ Add the bok choy, scallions, and red pepper flakes, and continue cooking about 3 minutes more, until the greens are just cooked.
~ Add the tofu cubes and the broth mixture and cook, stirring, until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens. (This should only take about a minute or two.)
~ Serve hot over short grain brown rice.

American Chop Suey

2011-09-02T00:00:00.005-04:00

American chop suey - for the uninitiated - is one of those working class New England staples, ubiquitous on diner menus and harried weeknight meal plans alike. I imagine that this is because it's A. cheap, B. fast, C. filling, and D. pleasing to even the most childish of starch-loving palates. When I was growing up, my mother made it pretty frequently, and this continued well into her career as World's Most Compulsively Feeding Grandmother, when Nana's refrigerator often contained a big Tupperware of the stuff for after-school noshing. I have no idea where the appellation "chop suey" comes from, and confess that I'd never really given it much thought, but a quick Wikipedia search tells us that the dish also appears in other regions and is "sometimes known as American Goulash, Macaroni Goulash or Macaroni and Beef," the last of which seems uninspiringly literal-minded. (Those who burn with curiosity for more information can check here for further enlightenment: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_chop_suey.)

Anyway, since we are currently heading into what promises to be a very busy school year, I've been trying to brainstorm meals that can be prepared ahead in large batches, to feed off during the week. Casseroles and stews are obvious choices, but it recently occurred to me that a humongous batch of American chop suey might fit the bill perfectly. And so it proved! Aside from replacing the nasty, greasy hamburger with a package of Trader Joes "Beefless" Ground Beef, I kept the whole thing pretty old school, and the results were received with so much enthusiasm that all those hoped-for leftovers disappeared much more quickly than planned. The first lesson of the semester? Always make more than you think you'll need; that's why Mother Nature invented the freezer. (Or something.)

American Chop Suey
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance (or other vegan margarine)
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 onion, chopped
~ 2 small or 1 large stalk celery, diced
~ 1 green bell pepper, diced
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, oregano, chili powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: basil, parsley
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 1 tbsp. vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 1 package Trader Joes "Beefless" Ground Beef (Gimme Lean or mashed up veggie meatballs would work, too)
~ 3 cups marinara sauce (homemade or jarred; your choice)
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1 lb. elbow macaroni, cooked and drained according to package directions

Directions
~ Boil and drain the elbow macaroni, rinse with cold water, and set aside.
~ In a large skillet, combine the margarine and olive oil, then sauté the onions, celery, bell pepper, and garlic over medium heat until soft (about 7-10 minutes).
~ Add the salt, oregano, chili powder, basil parsley, black pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and the TJ's ground "beef," and cook another minute or two.
~ Stir in the marinara sauce and the nutritional yeast, and combine thoroughly.
~ Turn heat to low, and continue cooking another 5 minutes.
~ Remove from heat, stir into cooked, drained macaroni, and serve hot. To keep that Mom's Diner vibe going, we had ours with green beans and corn on the side, but it's so filling that a green salad is really all you need.
~ So what are you waiting for? Eat, eat ; you're skin and bones!

Perfect Risotto

2011-08-22T00:00:00.007-04:00

Okay, I'm back. The past few weeks have been fairly - if pleasurably - hectic, what with house guests, visiting family, etc., so I haven't had much time to type things up. Since I'm starting coursework for my PhD (YESSSSS!) in a couple of weeks, there's also the whole "back to school" thing looming on the horizon, which may mean a little less cooking/blogging for awhile. I'm hoping to be sufficiently organized to do a lot of food prep on the weekends, and revert to my wonted once-a-week posting schedule. We'll see how that goes, but it's probably safe to expect lots of vaguely food-related references to Chaucer, British modernism, and gothic fiction; the possibilities seem limitless!

But for today, let's just Be Here Now, shall we? Here we have a simple, classic, saffron-infused risotto, just like Mama used to make. (Of course, my Mama never actually made risotto; she also looked nothing like the fine lady in the picture, who seems to have included shrimp, which would never happen. But you take my point.) This was, without exception, the best damn risotto I have ever made, and is loosely based on a version found while Googling "best classic risotto" or something. I stress the "loosely," because the model I chose to adapt insisted that the magic ingredient for a perfect risotto is - wait for it - bone marrow. Yes, you read that correctly. Now that you've got the old gag reflex back under control, I'll spare you the typically swoony, masturbatory, self-satisfied foodie rhetoric that accompanied this assertion, and just say that a few tablespoons of olive oil accomplished exactly what was required, without anyone's carcass being hacked apart. As my partner put it: "Gee, and to think I never even missed the bone marrow!"

And so, without further ado, I give you:

The Perfect Risotto

Ingredients
~ 4 cups stock (I'm addicted to Better Than Bouillon's No Chicken flavor)
~ 1/2 tsp. saffron threads
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 2 cups Arborio rice
~ 2 cups dry white wine
~ Salt to taste (depending on the saltiness of your stock)
~ 1/4 cup chopped, fresh parsley
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance (or other vegan margarine)
~ Fresh black pepper

Directions
~ Pour the stock into a pot and place over medium-high heat. Keep it very hot while you cook the risotto, but be careful to reduce heat if it comes close to a boil.
~ Toast the saffron (NB that this only takes a few seconds, and will make you feel totally cheffy!). Just place it in a metal spoon, and set it over a low flame to toast until fragrant. Add the toasted threads to the simmering broth.
~ In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil and sauté the onion over medium heat until softened but not browned, about 7-10 minutes. Depending on how salty your stock is, you may or may not want to add a teaspoon of salt at this point.
~ Add 1/2 cup of stock, and stir until mostly evaporated.
~ Turn the heat to medium-high, and add the rice. Stir constantly for a couple of minutes, until the grains are coated and giving off a toasty aroma.
~ Pour in the wine, stirring constantly until it has been absorbed.
~ Ladle in about a cup of the stock, and stir constantly until the liquid is absorbed. Continue this way until all of the stock has been added and the rice is creamy, but still has a bit of a bite to it.
~ Stir in the chopped parsley, the Earth Balance, and a few grinds of black pepper. Mix thoroughly, remove from heat, and serve immediately. We had ours as an accompaniment to a huge pan of eggplant parm, for the perfect Italian dinner. Abundanza!

Last Minute Baked Beans for the Lazy/Organizationally Challenged Person

2011-08-12T00:00:00.000-04:00

This total lazy cheater approach to baked beans came about because I got a last-minute craving for some sweet, smoky legumes to accompany the mac & cheese and garlicky greens I'd made for dinner. Since I hadn't planned ahead for this contingency (see above in re: lazy, last minute, etc.), and it was already almost 7pm, I took a quick look at the available supplies, considered the options, et voila: about an hour later, the idea had become reality! If I say so myself, the addition of mashed sweet potatoes was a stroke of genius. By the time the dish had been baked, they were unidentifiable as sweet potatoes, but they did something really nice to the sauce's flavor and texture, while adding nutritional value to an otherwise seat-of-the-pants, cupboard staple dish.

Ingredients
~ 2 large yams or sweet potatoes
~ 1 tbsp. oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. chili powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, marjoram, thyme
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 2-3 tsp. Liquid Smoke (or to taste)
~ 1/4 cup maple syrup
~ 2 tsp. hot sauce (or to taste)
~ 1 tbsp. each: prepared mustard, vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 2 cans Heinz (or other brand) Baked Beans

Directions
~ Bake the sweet potatoes in the oven or microwave until soft. When cool enough to handle, peel and mash.
~ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit and coat a baking dish with cooking spray.
~ Saute the onion and garlic in the oil over medium heat until the onions are quite soft; about 10 minutes.
~ Stir in the mashed sweet potatoes, then add all the remaining ingredients.
~ Combine thoroughly and pour the mixture into your prepared baking dish.
~ Bake, uncovered, at 350 for an hour, stirring every 20 minutes or so.
~ Serve hot!

Nigella-Inspired Boozy New Potatoes

2011-08-07T00:00:00.001-04:00

I'm currently in the midst of a passionate love affair with new potatoes; they're so tiny, so versatile, so delicious, and - let's face it - so damned cute. One recent, steamy evening, the only thing that sounded good was salad, but it needed to be substantial enough to count as dinner; enter the wee, adorable, darling new potato. As previously noted, I have a minor fascination with the über-posh, unapologetically buxom and bawdy Nigella Lawson, and as I cast about for ideas, I remembered seeing something on her blog about "boozy potatoes." This struck me as about the most felicitous word pairing that might be wished, and a quick Google search led me to the recipe, which I then proceeded (as is my wont) to alter to suit both personal taste and the contents of our larder. The results were so good that I can easily see this becoming a go-to preparation; along with some falafel, shaved carrot, plum tomatoes, and a simple dressing, these little beauties turned a simple plate of greens into a Proper Dinner. Of course, the primary virtue of this method is that the sky is pretty much the limit; you could change up the spices, omit the lemon juice and/or mustard for less tanginess, add some chopped onions or scallions, whatever suits your potato-based fancy. That said, I do suggest you make them (at least) once as written; you won't be sorry!

Ingredients
~ 2 lbs. tiny new or fingerling potatoes
~ 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 2 tsp. prepared mustard
~ Juice of one lemon
~ 3/4 cup white wine
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, chili powder, marjoram
~ A few grinds of fresh black pepper

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 425 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a baking dish with cooking spray.
~ Wash the potatoes, and halve some (if not all, depending on their size). Add to the baking dish in a single layer.
~ Mix together the remaining ingredients, and pour over the potatoes. Combine to make sure they are all thoroughly coated (I like to do this with my hands; it's not only fun, but moisturizing!).
~ Cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil, and bake in the center of the oven for about 35-40 minutes.
~ Remove the foil, stir the potatoes, and continue baking another 15-20 minutes, until they are golden brown and glazed with the (by now somewhat reduced) liquid.
~ Serve hot or at room temperature, as a side dish, or for a perfect hot weather dinner, atop a beautiful salad with some added beans, falafel, or baked tofu/tempeh for protein.

Peanuty Noodles with Tempeh Croutons

2011-08-02T00:00:00.006-04:00

Iwis it is not halfway to her heart.
But if it were, doubt not her wish should be
To eat some noodles with a peanuty sauce,
And twirl her fork and use it as a tool.
~ The Taming of the Shrew, 1.1.61–65 (sort of; in a way)

At this time of the rolling year here in central New England, the idea of hot - in the temperature sense - food seems pretty unappealing, so meals that can be prepared ahead and eaten later are a welcome option for those of us whom the heat makes a bit...well...shrewish. Cook these peanuty, slightly spicy noodles early on a warm day, and you can be assured of a great dinner in the evening, without having to turn the accursed stove back on. Better yet, they are delicious when eaten at room temperature, and make excellent straight-from-the-refrigerator leftovers the next day. Of course, if you're in a more temperate zone (or blessed with a less fiery temperament), go ahead and eat them hot; Iwis they'll taste just as good!

The Tempeh
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. soy sauce
~ 1 tbsp. each: toasted sesame oil, hot sauce, agave nectar
~ 1 tbsp. each: minced garlic, grated ginger
~ Juice of 1 lime
~ 8 oz. tempeh, cut into crouton-sized cubes

Directions
~ Combine all the marinade ingredients, then add the tempeh cubes and mix to coat. Set aside to marinade for at least an hour.
~ Coat a baking sheet with cooking spray, arrange the tempeh cubes (reserve any remaining marinade), and bake at 350 degrees for about 15-20 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure they don't burn.
~ Remove from oven and set aside.

The Sauce
Ingredients
~ 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
~ 1 tbsp. each: minced garlic, grated ginger
~ 1 tbsp. each: soy sauce, hot sauce, tomato paste
~ 1 cup smooth peanut butter
~ 1 cup vegetable broth
~ 1 10 oz. package frozen, chopped spinach, thawed

Directions
~ In a saucepan, heat the oil and saute the garlic and ginger over medium-low for about a minute.
~ Stir in the soy sauce, hot sauce, the tomato paste, and any leftover tempeh marinade.
~ Add the peanut butter bit by bit, stirring constantly. As it begins to thicken, add the broth until you have a smooth, creamy sauce.
~ Stir in the spinach and cook a minute or two more, until it is well incorporated.

You will also need...
~ 1 lb. noodles, cooked, drained and rinsed (lomein are nice, but linguine works just as well)
~ 1 cup reserved pasta cooking water
~ 4-5 cups stir-fried veggies of your choice (I happened to have scallions, red bell peppers, broccoli, and mushrooms)

The Assembly
~ Transfer the cooked, drained noodles to a large pot or serving bowl.
~ Add the stir-fried vegetables, the tempeh, and the sauce; mix thoroughly. (If it looks too thick, you can add some of the reserved pasta cooking water to thin it to the consistency you want.)
~ Serve hot or cold, or at room temperature ("...not hot, but temperate as the morn"). Sprinkle with some extra chopped scallions, peanuts, and/or hot sauce, as you like it.

There and back again

2011-07-28T00:00:00.003-04:00

We are plain quiet folk and have no use for adventures.
Nasty disturbing uncomfortable things! Make you late for dinner!
I can't think what anybody sees in them.

Well, here we are, back from three lovely weeks in England, and my feelings are the usual bittersweet mix: happiness at being home, and reunited with my beloved furry friends, combined with the sadness that comes with leaving a place I love so well. This particular trip took us to a flat in Bloomsbury, a farm in Yorkshire, and a strange, three-story townhouse in Witney (a market town near Oxford, where my partner was looking at some manuscripts). Overall, it was a combination of work and play, with a couple of conference papers thrown in for that added soupçon of virtue. We visited loads of museums, saw a few plays, took walks, hung out with friends and family, visited some wonderful churches, ruins, and pubs, and drank a lot of excellent beer and cider. One of the best things about being away is the break it imposes on our usual routines - not just what we do, but what we read, see, and think about. For three solid weeks, hardly a thought was bestowed upon American politics, current events, or popular culture. During that brief time, we were dimly aware of, yet somehow separated from the good (NY legalizing gay marriage: W00T!), the bad (the already-looming specter of the 2012 presidential race), and the tawdry (the horrendously sordid and sensationalized Casey Anthony trial) events taking place in the USA. On the other hand, we had front-row seats for the breaking shitstorm of the News of the World phone-hacking scandal, heard about red-top paparazzi favorite/victim Amy Winehouse's death as it was first reported, and spent hours each morning reading newspaper articles filled with information about people, places, and things that don't necessarily get much space on this side of the Atlantic. (We also managed to miss what was by all accounts some filthy, record-breaking heat and humidity, which suits me just fine; there's a reason I spend my summer holidays in a place famous for cool, damp weather.)

So now we're home, which is nice, but still feels a bit...weird. It's a sort of liminal state of mind in which I'm not really here or there; this seems particularly true in the domestic sphere. I have thrown a few meals together, but don't feel that I've quite reconnected with the kitchen. When we're away, my culinary horizons are determined by the random vicissitudes of rented kitchen; I adjust my expectations accordingly, and tend to cook very simple things. Being back on my own turf means that the sky is - in theory - the limit, but those vague ideas I stowed away for future exploration have yet to find expression in any edible form. That said, I did have some ideas (all based on classic, podgy British comfort food, so be forewarned), and I'd be happy to entertain any thoughts, opinions, and/or suggestions. The first thing I'd like to do is a proper "fish" and chips, inspired by a really great version we had in a pub in London. At the time I was too jetlagged/overwhelmed by the medieval reliquary exhibit at the British Museum to ask how they did it, but damn, was that some good fake fish; any and all suggestions as to how this might best be achieved are welcome. The next thing is the replication of a proper, raised crust "pork" pie (for the cognoscenti, think Melton Mowbray, without the grossness). I've got a pretty good idea about the filling, but it's the hot water pastry that has me stymied at present; again, any and all advice would be most appreciated. The last thing is sausages; one of the things I lament as an Anglophile vegan in America is the utter dearth of proper, English-style veggie sausages, and whenever we're there, one of our chief pleasures is exploring the variety of available commercial renditions. Having tried several types of Fry's, Redwood, and Linda McCartney on this trip, we found LM's the best (albeit a bit salty) for flavor, and Redwood's the best for texture. Alas, since I despair of ever being able to purchase such products in this benighted former colony, we have no choice but to make our own; my partner and his daughters have made seitan sausages with excellent texture, so that's sorted, but what I seek now is the seasoning combinations for Cumberland, Lincolnshire, and Glamorgan varieties. So - please feel free to share whatever knowledge you may possess pertaining to this Very Important Matter.

And I guess that's it, for the moment. It's kind of hot here, so tonight's dinner is a big salad topped with falafel and some previously roasted potatoes (recipe to follow, b/c I kind of stole it from Nigella and it rocks), after which a bath with some of the wonderful homemade soap from the Kelmscott village crafts fair seems indicated. Thanks in advance for whatever help you may be able/inclined to offer on my upcoming experiments (and for continuing to read my ramblings).

Roads go ever, ever on
Under cloud and under star,
Yet feet that wandering have gone
Turn at last to home afar.

Curried Roasted Chickpeas

2011-07-01T00:00:00.001-04:00

It's kind of ridiculous to even call this a "recipe," but these chickpeas are so great that I don't care. You could sprinkle these crunchy little darlings on a salad, stir them into soup like croutons, or just eat them all by themselves as the world's greatest snack: think of all the crispy, deliciousness of popcorn with nooch and curry powder, only loaded with protein and B vitamins!

Curried Roasted Chickpeas
Ingredients
~ 1 28 oz. can chickpeas, drained, rinsed, and patted dry
~ 2 tbsp. chaat masala (or curry power, garam masala, or some combination)
~ 2-3 tbsp. nutritional yeast
~ Cooking spray

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 425 degrees fahrenheit, and line a baking sheet with non-stick foil.
~ In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, chaat masala, and nutritional yeast. Mix thoroughly to make sure all of the chickpeas are coated.
~ Place the chickpeas on the baking sheet in a single layer, and coat lightly with cooking spray.
~ Roast at 425 degrees for about 30 minutes, shaking the pan every ten minutes or so, until the chickpeas are crisp and golden.
~ Allow to cool for a minute or two, and then serve; these are good hot or at room temperature.

Banana Raisin Muffins

2011-06-25T00:00:00.003-04:00

Well. Today marks the first full year since my mother passed away; to say that the past twelve months have been a strange, sad, bittersweet, illuminating, mind-expanding, and soul-searching time would be to say nothing original or particularly insightful. It is enough to mark the occasion, and to reflect upon and appreciate the past, even as we look ahead to the future. So in that spirit, I give you what my mom was always so good at providing: FOOD. This is essentially my take on my mom's classic banana bread, veganized and interpreted as muffins (although you can also bake it in a loaf pan; it will just take another 15 minutes or so in the oven). To those who knew her, such an assertion might be seen as silly and/or impossible, given my mother's belief that all baked goods should include the maximum quantity of butter and/or eggs, as a matter of principle. On the other hand, I am pretty much a professional at this sort of thing by now, and I think the fact that a dozen muffins lasted less than 24 hours amongst my kids (historically, perhaps the greatest fans/consumers of my mother's banana bread) speaks for itself.

Banana Raisin Muffins
Ingredients
~ 2 cups all purpose flour
~ 1/2 cup brown sugar
~ 1 tbsp. baking powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: baking soda, cinnamon, salt
~ 1/4 tsp. each: allspice, nutmeg
~ 3/4 cup raisins
~ 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts (optional)
~ 2-3 very ripe bananas, mashed
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce
~ 1/2 cup plain, unsweetened soy (or other non-dairy) milk

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a muffin tin with cooking spray.
~ In a mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients (flour through nutmeg), until thoroughly combined.
~ Add the raisins and walnuts (if using), and toss to coat with the flour mixture.
~ In a separate bowl, mix together the bananas, oil, applesauce, and milk.
~ Make a well in the center of the flour mixture, and add the wet ingredients.
~ Combine thoroughly, the spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tin.
~ Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
~ Allow to cool in the tin for about 10 minutes before turning out. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Baked Pasta Florentine

2011-06-20T00:00:00.004-04:00

Cassio: I humbly thank you for't.
I never knew a Florentine (pasta)
More kind and honest.
~ Othello, 3.1.43-45

While it is true that - in this particular case - "Florentine" is really just a fancy way of saying "with spinach," the fact remains that this casserole is not only kind and honest, but delicious and filling; it was the perfect dinner on a recent, unseasonably cold and rainy evening. Of course, "...to vouch this is no proof, Without more wider and more overt test," so you'll want to try it out for yourself. But it's very sobering to think of the tragedy that might have been avoided, if Desdemona had spent less time listening to Iago and more time thinking about pasta!

The dinner made, the meal is to ensue;
That pasta's yet to come 'tween me and you.
(Good night.)

Baked Pasta Florentine
Ingredients
~ 1 lb. pasta, cooked and drained according to package directions (I used fusilli)
~ 1 cup raw cashews
~ 2 cups vegetable broth
~ 2-3 tbsp. Earth Balance or other vegan margarine
~ 1 large onion, diced fine
~ 1 tsp. each: paprika, marjoram, onion powder, dried mustard
~ 1/2 tsp. salt (optional, depending on how salty your broth is; I use Better Than Bouillon, and don't add any salt)
~ 1/2 tsp. turmeric
~ 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
~ 1 tbsp. each: prepared mustard, vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 1 tsp. each: Marmite, hot sauce
~ 1 cup nutritional yeast
~ 3 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1 16 oz. package chopped, frozen spinach
~ 1/2 - 3/4 cup panko crumbs
~ 1 tbsp. Earth Balance, melted
~ 1 tsp. paprika

Directions
~ Bring the vegetable broth to a boil, then add the cashews, cover, and allow to soak for at least an hour. After they have cooled, puree the cashews and broth in a food processor until completely smooth. Set aside.
~ In a large, deep pot, melt the margarine and saute the onion over medium heat until very soft, about 10 minutes, being careful not to let them brown.
~ Add the dried seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire, Marmite, and hot sauce.
~ Pour in the pureed cashew mixture, then gradually begin adding the nutritional yeast, stirring constantly.
~ Add the soy milk, and continue cooking about 7-10 minutes more, until the sauce has thickened a bit.
~ Stir in the chopped, frozen spinach, and combine thoroughly. Cook another few minutes, until the spinach has wilted and become incorporated into the sauce.
~ Remove from heat and mix the sauce with the cooked pasta.
~ Coat a 9 x 12" casserole with cooking spray, and fill with the pasta mixture.
~ In a small bowl, combine the panko, melted Earth Balance, and paprika. Sprinkle this mixture over the pasta, cover the casserole with foil, and bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes.
~ Remove the foil, raise the heat to 425, and bake another 10 minutes, until browned and bubbling.
~ Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Egyptian-Style Red Lentil Soup

2011-06-14T00:00:00.006-04:00

Cleopatra: Give me some music; music, the moody food
Of us that trade in love.
Or else...how about some soup? Soup, the tasty food
Of us that feed on lentils.
~ Antony and Cleopatra, 5.1.1-4 (sort of)

Okay, I added that last part. But that's what she might have said, because even the serpent of old Nile must occasionally have fed herself with something other than delicious poison. And what could be more welcome at the end of a long day of intrigue, seduction, and spectacular barge outings than a hot, nourishing bowl of legumes? This soup was inspired by the version served at Zooroona, an excellent Middle Eastern restaurant in Kalamazoo (highly recommended, if you're ever in that neck of the woods), and I have to admit that I pretty much nailed it on the first try. Unlike most lentil soups, this one is pureed until mostly smooth, and the usual earthy flavors are brightened with fresh parsley and lemon juice, making for a hearty but surprisingly light repast. As Enobarbus might have put it,

...other soups cloy
The appetites they feed: but this makes hungry
Where most it satisfies.

So the next time you have immortal longings in you, forget about ordering that basket of asps and whip up a batch of this fine Egyptian cookery instead. That way, you shall have the fame - minus the unsightly snakebites - and a damn fine dinner, too!

Egyptian-Style Red Lentil Soup
Ingredients
~ 1/4 cup olive oil
~ 2 cups chopped yellow onion
~ 1 cup each: diced celery, carrot
~ 1 large potato, cubed
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: cumin, paprika, dill
~ 1/4 tsp. each: turmeric, cayenne pepper (or more to taste)
~ A few grinds of fresh black pepper
~ 2 cups red lentils
~ 1/4 cup chopped, fresh parsley
~ 8 cups vegetable broth (I highly recommend the Better Than Bouillon "No Chicken" flavor)
~ 1/4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
~ Extra parsley and lemon wedges to serve (optional)

Directions
~ In a large, deep pot, heat the oil and saute the onions, celery, carrots, and potato over medium heat for about 5 minutes.
~ Add the garlic and the dry seasonings, and cook another minute or two.
~ Stir in the lentils, the fresh parsley, and the broth, and raise the heat to high. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low and simmer for an hour (stirring occasionally), until all the ingredients are very soft.
~ Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Add the lemon juice and puree with an immersion blender until mostly (but not totally) smooth. If it looks too thick, add a little water until you have the consistency you want.
~ Reheat the soup and serve hot with a sprinkle of parsley and lemon wedges. (A few glasses of "the juice of Egypt's grape" wouldn't come amiss, either; you know Cleopatra would have wanted it that way!)

Banana Blueberry Pancakes

2011-06-10T00:00:00.000-04:00

These sweet, fluffy pancakes are not only an excellent use of the overripe bananas that always seem to accumulate at this time of year, but a perfect summer breakfast (especially if you get up and make them early, before it gets too hot to eat anything). I'm pretty generous with the blueberries, but you can adjust the amount to your own taste. Served with Earth Balance and maple syrup, a stack of these babies is guaranteed to satisfy all of your hungry piggies, big and small.

Banana Blueberry Pancakes

Ingredients

~ 1.5 cups all purpose flour

~ 2 tbsp. corn starch

~ 1 tbsp. baking powder

~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, cinnamon

~ Pinch of nutmeg

~ 2 very ripe bananas, mashed until smooth

~ 2 tbsp. canola oil

~ 2 tbsp. maple syrup

~ 1 tsp. vanilla extract

~ 1.5 cups plain, unsweetened soy (or other non-dairy) milk

~ 2 cups fresh blueberries, washed and stemmed

Directions

~ Preheat the oven to 200 degrees fahrenheit and place a nonstick baking sheet inside.

~ In a large bowl, sift together the flour, corn starch, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

~ In a separate bowl, combine the bananas, oil, maple syrup, vanilla, and milk.

~ Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, add the wet mixture, and stir to combine. (If the batter looks too thick, you can add up to about another 1/2 cup soy milk to thin it.)

~ Coat a skillet with cooking spray and place over medium heat.

~ Add the batter by large spoonfuls (I usually do just one at a time). As the pancake begins to set around the edges, sprinkle a handful of blueberries into the batter. When the surface begins to bubble, flip the pancake and cook another minute or two on the other side. Remove the cooked pancake to the baking sheet in your warm oven and continue until the batter and blueberries are used up (you may have some extra berries left over).

~ Serve hot with Earth Balance, maple syrup, and maybe those extra blueberries.

(Not Elvis Presley's) Memphis BBQ Tofu

2011-06-03T11:35:00.017-04:00

Sorry to have been such an infrequent poster lately; things have been busy, and thus not super-conducive to blogging. I have been cooking, but we've had a bunch of parties, graduations, and cookouts to attend, so it's mostly been garden variety, crowd-feeding stuff like pasta and/or grain salads that get thrown together with no thought of measuring, quantifying, or other types of rationalization. But today I have an actual recipe, and it's a pretty good one, too: a sort of happy mash-up of Vegan Dad's Memphis BBQ Tofu and my own Sweet & Spicy Tempeh Wings, improved by the addition of some whisky.

Now, I realize that there may be some who find a certain degree of incongruity in the idea of a Memphis-inspired "dry rub" for pressed bean curd, but I feel constrained to point out that A. it's really more a flavorful coating than a "rub," per se, to be applied before the tofu gets pan-seared, doused in smoky, boozy sauce, and baked until sticky and delicious; B. my version includes nutritional yeast, which confers upon it unimpeachable hippie street cred; and C. it's totally pig-friendly, which is more than can be said for more "traditional" renditions. So fire up the stove, crack open the Jim Beam, and let's cook us some tofu!

The Tofu

Ingredients

~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, drained and pressed

~ 2 tbsp. nutritional yeast

~ 1 tsp. each: smoked paprika, onion powder, garlic powder

~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper

~ Oil or cooking spray

Directions

~ Slice the tofu in half horizontally, then divide into eight equal slices (this should give you 16 pieces). Pat dry.

~ In a shallow dish, combine all the dry ingredients, then coat each piece of tofu thoroughly with the mixture. Set aside for at least 30 minutes (I made the sauce during this time).

~ Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat, and coat with cooking spray or a very thin layer of oil. Cook the tofu for about two minutes on each side, until you get a nice sear on the outside. Remove to a plate.

The Sauce

Ingredients

~ 2 tbsp. olive oil

~ 1 medium onion, chopped fine

~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic

~ 1 tsp. each: smoked paprika, chili powder,

~ 1/2 tsp. salt

~ A few grinds of black pepper

~ 2-3 tsp. hot sauce (or to taste)

~ 1 tbsp. each: prepared mustard, vegan Worcestershire sauce

~ 1/3 cup maple syrup

~ 1/3 cup ketchup

~ 1/4 cup bourbon

Directions

~ In a saucepan, heat the oil and saute the onions and garlic over medium-low heat for about 15 minutes, until softened.

~ Add the remaining ingredients, stir to combine, and raise the heat to medium until the mixture bubbles.

~ Reduce the heat to low and cook another 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened (if it gets too thick, you can add up to 1/2 cup of water, but remember we want a coating for the tofu, rather than a lake for it swim in).

And now...

~ Preheat the oven to 425 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a baking dish with cooking spray.

~ Arrange the fried tofu pieces in the baking dish, and then pour on the sauce, flipping them over to coat.

~ Bake uncovered for 20-25 minutes, turning the tofu over once or twice to make sure the sauce gets cooked on. Ovens vary, so keep an eye on it; it's okay if the sauce gets ever so slightly charred around the edges, but you don't want it to burn.

~ Serve hot with the accompaniments of your choice. (We had ours with mac & cheeze and creamed spinach, for that old-school, south of the Mason-Dixon vibe: highly recommended!)

Open Sesame Couscous

2011-05-20T00:00:00.001-04:00

I love couscous: it's versatile, easy, and super quick, which makes it especially nice during the warmer months, when you don't want to steam up the kitchen too much. The warm weather has yet to reach us here in New England (we're currently on the eighth in a series of cool, rainy days), but this one-dish meal arose from one of those all-too-familiar situations when both time and supplies are in limited supply. The sesame seeds added a nice touch to an otherwise pretty standard empty larder, "make a virtue of necessity" dinner; in fact, this
turned out so well that it deserves to make regular appearances. I happened to have smoked tofu on hand, but you could subsititute plain, or use cubed tempeh, or just leave it out altogether; the best part is that the whole thing comes together really quickly, so whether you want it for a main dish or alongside something else, you'll be out of the kitchen in about fifteen minutes. Open sesame, doc!

Open Sesame Couscous

Ingredients

~ 1-2 tbsp. vegan margarine (or oil; I just like the "butteriness" of EB here)

~ 1 tbsp. sesame seeds

~ 1 small onion, diced

~ 2 stalks celery, diced

~ 1 carrot, diced

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, dill, marjoram

~ A few grinds black pepper

~ 6 scallions, sliced thinly

~ 8 oz. smoked tofu, cubed

~ 1 cup couscous

~ 2 cups vegetable broth

Directions

~ In a saucepan, melt the margarine over medium-high heat, and stir in the sesame seeds. Cook for about two minutes, until they turn a pale golden color, and start to give off a yummy aroma (don't let them brown!).

~ Add the onions, celery, carrots, and dry seasonings; cook about 5 minutes, until vegetables are getting soft.

~ Add the scallions, tofu, and the couscous; stir to combine.

~ Raise the heat to high, pour in the vegetable broth, and bring just to a boil.

~ Cover the pot, remove from heat, and allow to stand 5-7 minutes, or until all the liquid has been absorbed. Fluff with a fork and serve hot.

Crispy Oyster Mushrooms

2011-05-08T00:00:00.001-04:00

“But wait a bit,” the Oyster [
mushroom]
s cried,
“Before we have our chat;
For some of us are out of breath,
And all of us are fat!”
“No hurry!” said the Carpenter.
They thanked him much for that.

“A loaf of bread,” the Walrus said,
“Is what we chiefly need:
Pepper and vinegar besides
Are very good indeed—
Now if you’re ready, Oyster [mushroom]s dear,
We can begin to feed."

One of our favorite places to get a non-home-cooked meal these days is a terrific vegan restaurant in Somerville called True Bistro (and since I'm doing my PhD right around the corner at Tufts, they'll be seeing a lot more of us in the upcoming; coincidence?!). Among their many offerings is an appetizer of cornmeal crusted oyster mushrooms, which is exactly the sort of thing with which I'd like to be left alone with an
an inexhaustible supply
. Failing that, I'd be perfectly happy to get several orders and make a meal of them (except that it might be embarrassing for my dining companions when I refused to share. At top volume).

Anyway, I love those things with a burning passion, so imagine the excitement when - several days after celebrating my birthday at TB, with fond memories of crispy, shroomy goodness dancing in my head - I spotted some fresh oyster mushrooms at the local health food store. S
uffice to say that a little impromptu dance was performed as into the cart they went. Upon getting home, I started looking for recipes that might approximate TB's approach, and this is what I came up with. Obviously, my home kitchen lacks some of the accoutrements of a professional establishment, but if you happen to have a deep fryer, by all means go for it and report back (as it was, I used
a deep skillet with excellent results). And in the end, it must be said that our oyster mushrooms had a pleasant run; although when asked,

"
Shall we be trotting home again?”
...
answer came there none.
And this was scarcely odd, because
They’d [been] eaten every one.

The Mushrooms

Ingredients

~ 1 lb. oyster mushrooms, cleaned

~ Egg replacer for 5 eggs, prepared according to package directions (I used Ener-G)

~ 1 cup chickpea flour

~ 2/3 cup fine cornmeal (not the coarse, polenta-style stuff)

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, chili powder, garlic powder

~ A few grinds of black pepper

~ Pinch of cayenne or red pepper flakes (optional)

~ Oil for frying

Directions

~ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit, and place a nonstick baking sheet inside.

~ In a mixing bowl, prepare the egg replacer.

~ In a separate bowl, sift together the chickpea flour, cornmeal, and dry seasonings.

~ Dip each mushroom in the egg replacer, shake off the excess, then dip into the flour mixture. (It helps to have a "wet" hand and a "dry" hand during this part of the process.)

~ As each mushroom is coated with flour, shake off any excess and place on a platter. Repeat with remaining mushrooms until they are all coated and ready to fry!

~ In a large, deep skillet, heat about an inch of oil (I used canola) over medium-high heat, until a mushroom placed in the pan sizzles and rises to the top.

~ Working in batches, fry the mushrooms for about 2 minutes on each side, removing to the baking sheet to keep warm as each batch is completed.

~ Transfer the mushrooms from the baking sheet to a platter lined with paper towels (an old brown grocery bag works just as well). Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and some extra red pepper flakes if you like, and serve, accompanied by...

The Sauce

Ingredients

~ 1 cup vegan mayonnaise (I used Vegenaise, but use whatever you prefer)

~ 1 tsp. each: dill, hot sauce

~ 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

~ A few grinds of salt and pepper

~ Plain, unsweetened soy milk, as needed

Directions

~ In a small bowl, mix all of the ingredients. If you want a thicker, more tartar sauce-like consistency, omit the soy milk; if you prefer something more akin to a salad dressing, add about 1/4 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk until you get the texture you want.

Tofu Scramble Royale

2011-05-04T00:00:00.010-04:00

Intellectually, all good liberals know that as an institution, the monarchy is an outmoded, exploitative, archaic, imperialist throwback with no meaningful place in a modern democratic state. That said, to a person who spends a fair bit of time reading, writing, and thinking about "Englishness" in general, and about Shakespeare in particular (a writer who spilled his own share of ink on the subject of his homeland), the subject remains compelling, if only for its limitless dramatic potential. More viscerally, as the daughter of an English GI bride and a WWII veteran, there's something oddly stirring about the ceremonial occasions at which the British so excel. Especially since my mother's passing last year, I confess to feeling an emotional thrill at the sense of cultural continuity evoked by a coronation, a wedding, or even a state funeral. (To say nothing of the hats!)

That being the case, I was more than happy to enter into the spirit of the recent nuptials of
Prince William and Kate Middleton, at least insofar as it entailed switching on the television and cracking open a bottle at an hour when most people are readying themselves for more virtuous endeavors. To ensure that we were properly fortified for the length and breadth of the spectacle that lay before us, I whipped up this rather fancy tofu scramble, along with some steamed asparagus, toasted crumpets, and our own home-made marmalade. Washed down with a few glasses of cheap champers, it was
the perfect wedding breakfast. In fact, it was
better than being there: all the pomp and circumstance, without ever
having to get out of our pajamas. Cool Britannia!

Tofu Scramble Royale

Ingredients

~ 1 tbsp. oil

~ 1 small onion, diced (about 1 cup)

~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, drained and mashed

~ 1 tsp. each: dill, marjoram

~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, turmeric, dry mustard, paprika

~ A few grinds of fresh black pepper

~ 2 tbsps. nutritional yeast

~ 3 cups baby spinach, chopped

~ 1/2 cup vegan cream cheese (I used Tofutti)

~ A sprinkle of veggie "bacon" bits (optional)

Directions

~ In a large skillet, heat the oil and saute the onion over medium heat until quite soft; about 5 minutes.

~ Add the tofu, the dry seasonings, and the nutritional yeast; cook another 5 minutes, stirring frequently. If things start to stick, you can add up to 1/4 cup of plain, unsweetened soy milk to keep things moving.

~ Add the spinach and stir until wilted.

~ Stir in the cream cheese and mix until combined. Serve hot, sprinkled with veggie bacon bits, if desired.

Crabby Bisque

2011-04-23T00:00:00.006-04:00

In my omnivorous/pescatarian past, one of my most dearly beloved soups was lobster and/or crab bisque. It was one of those things that I'd order in a restaurant, but it would never have occurred to me to make at home. But as with so many dishes I've made since becoming vegan, the notion of veganizing this old favorite has become a veritable maggot in my brain. So when my partner saw some fake crabmeat in the freezer case of our local Loving Hut, he knew what to do, and this thick, creamy, and slightly spicy soup is the happy result. I used some dried seaweed to try to achieve that oceanic je ne sais quoi, and will probably up the quantity next time (I may use toasted, crumbled nori instead of dulse; watch this space). We had ours with salad and crusty bread, but for a more authentic touch, try getting your hands on some of those little oyster crackers that New England restaurants always serve alongside seafood soups or chowders!

Crabby Bisque

Ingredients
~ 4 tbsp. vegan margarine
~ 1 cup finely chopped onion
~ 1 cup diced carrot
~ 1/2 cup diced celery
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 2 bay leaves
~ 1 tsp. each: kosher salt, tarragon, thyme, paprika
~ 2-3 tsp. crumbled dulse or other seaweed
~ 1/4 - 1/2 tsp. cayenne (or to taste)
~ Pinch nutmeg
~ A few generous grinds of fresh black pepper
~ 8 oz. vegetarian crabmeat (thawed and rinsed, if frozen)
~ 3/4 cup dry sherry, divided
~ 4 tbsp. flour
~ 2 cups unsweetened vegan creamer (such as Silk or Mimicreme)
~ 1 tbsp. each: tomato paste, vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 4 cups vegetable stock
~ 1/2 cup soft, silken tofu or vegan cream cheese (I used Tofutti)

Directions
~ In a large, deep pot, melt the margarine over moderate heat and add the onions. Saute for about 3 minutes.
~ Add the carrots and celery, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes more.
~ Add the garlic, bay leaves, and dried seasonings (through the black pepper), and cook another minute or so.
~ Add the "crab" and cook for a few minutes, until it is broken up and coated with the seasonings.
~ Pour in 1/2 cup of the sherry to deglaze the pan. When it has mostly cooked off, add the flour and 1/4 cup of the creamer. Stir to combine, and then gradually add the remaining creamer.
~ Add the tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, and vegetable broth. Stir thoroughly and bring to a boil before lowering the heat to simmer. Cover and cook for 15-20 minutes.
~ Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Remove the bay leaves, stir in the remaining 1/4 cup sherry and the cream cheese or silken tofu, and puree with an immersion blender until completely smooth.
~ Return to heat until almost but not quite boiling, and serve hot.

Super Simple Herbed Lentils

2011-04-18T00:00:00.000-04:00

This is a supremely easy, basic preparation for lentils; probably one of the earliest ways I learned to cook them (sans the wine, of course; as a teenaged hippie,
I wasn't that sophisticated). It is also - like many simple dishes - both tasty and satisfying, and needs only a bed of rice or couscous and a salad to impart the virtuous glow that comes of putting "a proper meal" on the table. (The fact that it
takes almost no time to make only makes it better; who's going to argue with that?)

Super Simple Herbed Lentils

Ingredients

~ 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

~ 1 large onion, chopped

~ 2 stalks celery, diced

~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, tarragon, parsley, basil

~ 1/2 tsp. oregano

~ A few grinds of black pepper

~ 1/2 cup dry white wine

~ 1 cup brown lentils, picked over and rinsed

~ 2 bay leaves

~ 1.5 - 2 cups vegetable broth

Directions

~ In a largeish saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat and saute the onions and celery about two minutes.

~ Add the garlic and dry seasonings, and cook another minute, until fragrant.

~ Raise the heat to high and pour in the wine; combine thoroughly and cook another minute or so, until most of the wine has evaporated.

~ Add the lentils, the bay leaves, and 1.5 cups of the broth.

~ Bring to a boil, then cover the pan, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 30-35 minutes, or until the liquid has been almost entirely absorbed. (You can check occasionally; if it seems too dry, add that extra 1/2 cup of broth.)

~ Remove from heat, fish out the bay leaves, and serve hot (or at room temperature) over rice, bulghur, couscous, or your grain of choice.

Pan Fried Ravioli with Mushrooms and Kale

2011-04-12T00:00:00.002-04:00

Let me just start by saying that I have no idea why this (apparently happy) couple is sleeping inside a can of ravioli; just more proof that you never can tell what will turn up when you type something into a search engine. On the other hand, this image does illustrate something about the place of ravioli in mainstream American culture. When I was growing up, my only exposure to these doughy, cheese-stuffed pillows was fresh out of a can sporting the name of a certain Chef Boyardee (who, by the way, I don't believe attended any reputable culinary school), and swimming in a sugary red sauce. This is actually kind of funny, since my mother had a killer spaghetti sauce recipe, and was even known to make her own egg noodles from time to time, but I suppose it was hardly to be expected that the British GI bride of a first-generation Greek would be making ravioli from scratch. In any case, those canned ones were okay - the sort of thing that might occasionally appear in your "soup" thermos, or for a Saturday afternoon lunch in front of the TV - but I was never all that crazy about them.

Then came the the great pasta craze of the 1980s, opening the door to a brave new world of carbohydrates, many of them boasting names evocative of Renaissance masters (or Ninja Turtles, depending upon one's frame of reference). Capellini, cavatelli, tortellini, and - yes! - even that party dude, ravioli, all enjoyed a new lease on life. For vegetarians, this macaromania was a positive boon: suddenly there were loads of restaurant options, especially for people who ate eggs and cheese. Like everyone else, I inhaled huge plates of pesto linguine, and loaded up the grocery cart with multiple packages of fresh pasta, to be drenched in butter and/or various sauces once I got them home. Of course, the whirligig of time eventually brought in her revenges, as the carb-loving '80s gave way to the protein-obsessed '90s; but since I don't give a rat's ass what Oprah or Cosmo or anyone else says about anything, pasta has always retained its status as a dinner table staple chez nous.

All of which is an extremely roundabout route to the following public avowal: one of these days, I am going to make my own, fresh ravioli. From scratch. This has been on my "to do" list for awhile, and I swear that I'll get to it. Eventually. In the meantime, imagine my excitement when I saw that our local health food store had begun carrying Soy Boy tofu ravioli! Having heard good things about them, I immediately snatched up a package and began thinking about how best to prepare them. Since I've always been of the belief that boiling ravioli is a travesty in a world where they can be pan-fried, it was a given that olive oil and a hot skillet lay in their immediate future, but what else? A quick glance at the produce section answered this question with some babybella mushrooms and head of beautiful dinosaur kale so fresh that a wee little worm came crawling up my arm while I was cleaning it. (NB that he was relocated to the mint patch outside the kitchen door, and that no bugs were harmed in the making of this dinner.) A little garlic, a little wine, a few herbs, and the result was far beyond Chef Boyardee's wildest dreams. With garlic bread and some sauteed onions, peppers, and Field Roast sausage, this was the sort of dinner you'd get in a really good, old-school Italian restaurant. Definitely a make again; maybe even with homemade ravioli next time!

Pan Fried Ravioli with Mushrooms and Kale
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance (or other vegan margarine)
~ 1/2 cup onion, minced very fine
~ 10 oz. baby bella mushrooms, sliced
~ 1 tbsp. garlic, minced
~ 1/2 cup dry white wine
~ 1 tsp. each: basil, parsley
~ 1/2 teaspoon salt
~ A few generous grinds of fresh black pepper
~ 1 cup vegetable stock
~ 1 small head kale, stripped and chopped (about 3-4 cups)
~ 2 tbsp. vegan parmesan or nutritional yeast
~ 1 package Soy Boy (or other brand) tofu ravioli

Directions
~ Cook ravioli in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, and set aside.
~ Heat 1 tbsp of the oil and 1 tbsp. of the margarine in a heavy skillet over moderately high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes.
~ Increase heat to high and add the mushrooms. Sauté, stirring, about 5 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, salt, basil, parsley, and pepper, and cook another minute.
~ Pour in the wine and cook until liquid is mostly evaporated (about 2 minutes). Stir in salt, pepper, basil, and parsley.
~ Add the kale and cook about 3 minutes more, until the kale is wilted but still green.
~ Add the vegetable broth, cook another few minutes; then stir in the vegan parmesan or nutritional yeast. Remove from heat.
~ In a separate skillet, heat the remaining 1 tbsp. of oil and 1 tbsp. of margarine over moderately high heat. Add the drained, cooked ravioli; fry for a few minutes on each side until golden brown and ever so slightly crispy.
~ Add the vegetable mixture to the skillet with ravioli, stirring gently until combined. Serve hot.

Patatas Bravas

2011-04-08T00:00:00.007-04:00

Oh, never, surely, was a dish
So served by hand of dame,
As served were these, a breakfast wish,
When from our beds we came.

So might Cervantes have written, had he been in the kitchen when I made this adaptation of a classic tapas recipe for a recent, outrageously filling brunch. (Realizing that it's always best to be fortified for a long day tilting at windmills.) The main changes I made to the source recipe - found, like many an inspiration, in the food section of my beloved Guardian - were to increase the seasonings in the red sauce, and to roast the potatoes rather than frying them. Instead of the traditional aioli, I made a saffron-garlic sauce, but if you're feeling lazy, you could just substitute your favorite vegan garlic mayonnaise. Like most quixotic enterprises, it took a little time and effort to pull everything together, but the ensuing praise from my knight in shining armor made it all worthwhile.

The Potatoes
Ingredients
~ 5 lbs. potatoes, cut into rough chunks (I used Yukon Gold)
~ 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
~ Kosher salt
~ Fresh black pepper
~ 1 tsp. each: paprika, parsley

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 400 degrees fahrenheit, and coat two baking sheets with cooking spray.
~ In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, oil, salt, pepper, paprika, and parsley. Mix everything together with your hands, making sure all the potatoes are thoroughly coated.
~ Divide the potatoes between the two baking sheets, and roast at 400 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally, until crisp and brown.
~ While that's happening, you can make...

The Red Sauce
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
~ 1 small onion, finely diced
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 28 oz. can fire-roasted, diced tomatoes
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, smoked paprika, chili powder, cilantro, cumin, sugar
~ 1/4-1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (more or less to taste)
~ Pinch of nutmeg
~ 1 tbsp. each: sherry, balsamic vinegar

Directions
~ In a saucepan, saute the onion in the oil over medium heat for about 5-7 minutes, until softened and golden.
~ Add the garlic and cook another minute.
~ Add the canned tomatoes (including liquid) and all the seasonings except the sherry and vinegar.
~ Stir to combine, bring to a boil, and then lower the heat to simmer and cook for about 30 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce has reduced to thick, dark, deliciousness.
~ Add the sherry and the balsamic vinegar, stir to combine, and remove from heat.

The Yellow Sauce
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. Earth Balance
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tbsp. flour
~ 1.5 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1/2 tsp. saffron threads
~ 1/2 cup raw cashews
~ Juice of 1 lemon
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, tarragon
~ 2 tsp. Dr Gonzo's Garlic Mash (optional, but awesome: http://www.drgonzos.com/Garlicmash-No-4.html)

Directions
~ In a saucepan or the microwave, heat the soy milk, saffron and cashews to nearly boiling and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes before blending in a food processor until completely smooth.
~ In a saucepan, melt the margarine over low heat, then add the garlic. Saute briefly, then add the flour to make a roux.
~ Raise the heat to medium, then begin gradually adding the blended cashew/soy milk mixture, stirring continually.
~ Add the lemon juice, salt, tarragon, and Garlic Mash. Cook for about 5-7 minutes, continuing to stir, until thickened; if it gets too thick, add a little water or soy milk to get the consistency you like.

And now...
~ Ladle some red sauce onto a warmed plate, arrange potatoes on top, and spoon on some of the yellow sauce. Top with a sprinkle of cilantro or parsley and serve immediately, accompanied by the flourish of (probably imaginary) hautboys.

Martian Food (aka Spinach Souffle)

2011-04-01T00:00:00.001-04:00

This is my attempt to reproduce something akin to those frozen spinach souffles many of us remember from childhood. My parents - both excellent cooks - almost never had stuff like that in the house, but I was always fascinated by their strange green, brick-like appearance. (My brother-in-law grew up referring to this product as "Martian food"; hence the title of this post, and the accompanying photo.) Anyway, one recent evening I was trying to think of something different to do with frozen spinach, and this is what I came up with. The result is kind of like a frittata, kind of like a quiche, and kind of like a souffle; it is not, however, anything at all like a brick. I think that Marvin would approve.

Spinach Souffle
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 lb. frozen spinach, thawed
~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, drained and pressed
~ 1/2 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1/4 cup tahini
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1/4 cup chickpea flour
~ 2 tsp. baking powder
~ 1 tsp. cornstarch
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, basil, garlic powder
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ Pinch of nutmeg

Directions
~ Preheat oven to 425 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a deep-dish pie plate (or baking dish) with cooking spray.
~ In a skillet, saute the onion, garlic, and spinach in the olive oil for about 5 minutes over medium-high heat. Remove from heat and set aside.
~ In a large blender or food processor, puree the remaining ingredients. Add the cooked, cooled spinach mixture, and puree until smooth.
~ Spoon the mixture into your prepared baking dish, smoothing with a rubber spatula to cover.
~ Sprinkle the top with a little paprika, and bake uncovered in the center of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until the batter is set and the souffle golden brown on top. (Check on it occasionally during the process, since ovens differ).
~ Allow to sit another 10-15 minutes before serving.

Aloo Gobi

2011-03-24T12:03:00.006-04:00

Between one thing and another, I haven't been blogging much lately, but I have been cooking. In fact, I've been sort of stuck in an Indian groove for awhile. This is largely due to my inherited tendency to cook too much food, which leads to self-perpetuating cycle: if there's leftover dal, there needs to be something to go along with it, which means cooking a vegetable dish and/or some rice, which leads in turn to more Indian leftovers. (Not that this is a bad thing!) In any case, having recently made a huge pot of spinach, eggplant, and chickpea curry, I was casting about for something to go alongside it a few nights later. Since we were somewhat short on time and low on supplies, the last of the potatoes and a neglected head of cauliflower that had been waiting patiently in the refrigerator presented the perfect opportunity to whip up a batch of Aloo Gobi, the recipe for which I present to you. This was a fairly quick and dirty rendition, but it made a nice starchy, tomatoey contrast to the richness of the curry. And now that we're finally getting to the end of the Indian leftovers, so you can look forward to something a bit different in the (hopefully) not-too-distant future!

Aloo Gobi

Ingredients

~ 2 tbsp. canola oil

~ 1 tsp. cumin seeds

~ 1 large onion, diced

~ 1 tbsp. each: minced garlic, grated ginger

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, turmeric, chat masala, chili powder

~ 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper

~ 1 15 oz. can diced, fire roasted tomatoes

~ 1 large cauliflower, cut into bite-sized pieces

~ 3 large potatoes, cubed

~ 2 tsp. garam masala

~ Chopped, fresh coriander (optional)

Directions

~ In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the cumin seeds and fry for about a minute, until they just begin to pop.

~ Add the onions, and cook about 3 minutes.

~ Add the garlic, ginger, and seasonings, and cook another minute or so.

~ Stir in the tomatoes, then add the potatoes and cauliflower, making sure they are completely coated.

~ Cover the pan, turn heat to medium, and allow to cook for 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

~ Uncover the pan, add the garam masala, and cook another minute or two.

~ Serve hot; if you like, garnish with a little chopped, fresh coriander.

Slightly Smoky, Savory Corn Muffins

2011-03-12T03:00:00.000-05:00

I freely admit that this recipe was largely experimental, but (fortunately) the results were an unqualified success. I needed - okay, wanted - something to accompany a big pot of soup, but couldn't be arsed to start a proper yeast-raised bread at 6pm on a weeknight, so corn muffins seemed like a good solution. I didn't have a go-to recipe, but remembered that my mom always used a mixture of flour and cornmeal, to avoid that gut-bomb quality sometimes found in the all-corn variety. I took that as a starting point, but after that all bets were sort of off; it was a relief when these came out of the oven not only looking lovely, but tasting really good as well. As the name indicates, they're not super smokey, but the paprika and scallion combination adds a nice savory something that makes them perfect next to a bowl of soup or chili. Of course, you could leave it out if you like, and still have some seriously yummy muffins, but give them a try as is; my inaugural batch of a dozen lasted well under 24 hours, which in my book is a clear vote of confidence.

Slightly Smoky, Savory Corn Muffins
Ingredients
~ 2 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
~ 1.5 cups all purpose flour
~ 1 1/4 cups cornmeal
~ 1 tbsp. baking powder
~ 1 tsp. salt
~ 1/2 tsp. each: sage, smoked paprika
~ 2 large scallions, chopped fine
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance, melted (optional)

Directions
~ Preheat oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a muffin tin with cooking spray.
~ In a mixing bowl, combine the soy milk and vinegar together and set aside.
~ In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, sage, and paprika.
~ Add the chopped scallions to the dry ingredients and toss to coat; this will give them some "grip" in the batter.

~ Pour the oil into the milk mixture, and whisk until frothy.
~ Mix the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients to make a smooth (albeit somewhat soupy; don't worry, they'll firm up as they bake) batter.

~ Stir in the melted margarine (if using), and pour the batter into prepared muffin tin and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out clean.

~ Allow to cool briefly in the tin before turning out and serving warm or at room temperature.

Vietnamese Tofu Curry

2011-03-04T03:00:00.000-05:00

I love Vietnamese curries; that particular combination of coconut milk, lemongrass, basil, and spicy chilis adds up to something so much more wonderful than the sum of its parts. Over the past week or so, I've had a wretched cold, and wanted hot, soupy things, so my lovely partner obliged me with a much-improved update of my own avgolemono recipe (http://elizaveganpage.blogspot.com/2009/01/avgolemono-without-avgo.html). We fed off that for several days, and then it was time for Something Completely Different, and a nice tofu curry sounded like just the thing. I was all set to call our (very good) local place for some takeout, when it occurred to me that we probably had everything necessary right here at home. I checked the pantry, did a little Googling, conflated - 'tis ever thus - a few different recipes, and within an hour we were chowing down on this comforting, delicious meal. (Alas, the partner is now the sick one, so we're back to soup; this time, it's potato leek!)

Vietnamese Tofu Curry
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. canola oil
~ 1 tbsp. each: grated ginger, minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, cilantro
~ 1/2 tsp. dried lemongrass
~ 1 tbsp. curry powder
~ 2 bay leaves
~ 1 large onion, sliced into thin crescents
~ 2 stalks celery, sliced into thin strips
~ 2 carrots, julienned
~ 1 red bell pepper, chopped
~ 1 large zucchini, julienned
~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, pressed and cubed
~ 2 tbsp. vegetarian oyster sauce (or soy sauce)
~ 1 10 oz, package frozen spinach, thawed
~ 2 14 oz. cans lite coconut milk
~ 1- 2 tsp. hot sauce, or to taste (I use Sriracha)
~ 1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
~ 1/2 cup cold water
~ 1 tbsp. corn starch

Directions
~ In a large, deep wok, heat the oil and saute the ginger, garlic, salt, cilantro, lemongrass, curry powder, bay leaves, and onion over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes.
~ Add the fresh vegetables (celery through zucchini), and cook another 5 minutes.
~ Stir in the tofu, oyster sauce, and spinach, and cook a few minutes more to combine.
~ Raise the heat to high, add the coconut milk and hot sauce, and bring to just boiling. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover the wok, and allow to cook another 10 minutes.
~ In a small bowl, combine the cold water and corn starch, whisk to combine, and stir into the curry. Cook another few minutes until thickened.
~ Fish out the bay leaves, stir in the basil, taste for seasoning, and serve hot over jasmine or basmati rice.

Cheezy Baked Breakfast Potatoes

2011-02-26T03:00:00.000-05:00

This is my spur-of-the-hungry-moment version of the "Outstanding Cheezy Potato Bake" recipe on VegWeb (http://vegweb.com/index.php?topic=24587.0), which is basically a veganization of the old-school potatoes au gratin many of us grew up eating. We were completely out of onions (?!), so I substituted leeks and scallions; since there were a couple of Field Roast sausages hanging out in the refrigerator, it seemed like a good idea to throw them in, too. I also increased the amount of nutritional yeast, added some chili powder, and upped the milk:nooch ratio to make it a little "saucier." On the whole, it turned out really well (and was actually quite amazingly "cheesy"): an excellent brunch for a lazy Sunday. I'll give it another go when I have some onions on hand, but I can definitely recommend it just as it is here.

Cheezy Baked Breakfast Potatoes
Ingredients
~ 6 medium potatoes, sliced in very thin rounds (about 1/8" if you can manage it)
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 leeks, cleaned and thinly sliced
~ 2 Field Roast (or other brand) Italian sausages,  cubed
~ 4 large scallions, thinly sliced
~ 2-3 tbsp. margarine (I use Earth Balance)
~ Salt and pepper
~ 1 tsp. marjoram
~ 3/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1 3/4-2 cups plain, unsweetened nondairy milk
~ 1 tsp. chili powder
~ Paprika for garnish

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 450 degrees fahrenheit, and grease a baking dish or casserole.
~ In a beaker, whisk together the nutritional yeast, milk, and chili powder, and set aside.
~ In a skillet, cook the leeks in the oil over medium heat until softened; about 5 minutes.
~ Raise the heat to medium-high, add the cubed sausage, and cook another 5 minutes until browned.
~ Layer half of the potato slices in the bottom of the greased baking dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and 1/2 tsp. of marjoram.
~ Layer the leek and sausage mixture on top of the potatoes, then sprinkle with half the chopped scallions and dot with about a tablespoon of margarine.
~ Pour half of the nooch/milk mixture over the whole mess, then layer on the remaining potatoes, sprinkle with the rest of the scallions, the other 1/2 tsp. of margarine, and more salt and pepper.
~ Cover with the remaining nooch/milk mixture, dot with another tbsp. of margarine, sprinkle with paprika, and bake uncovered at 450 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the potatoes are tender and the sauce is browned and bubbling.

Blueberry Muffins

2011-02-20T03:00:00.000-05:00

These are the sort of old-fashioned, straightforward blueberry muffins that one would like to find in the kitchen upon arising, nestled cozily in a wicker basket atop a gingham-draped table. This is particularly true right now, in the bleak midwinter. When the wind is whistling around the house, and the snow is piled up to unprecedented heights, a little taste of summer can go a long way towards reassuring us that the ice will melt, the grass will reappear, and summer will come again. (Right?)

Blueberry Muffins
Ingredients
~ 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
~ 1 cup plain rice milk
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce
~ 1 tsp. vanilla
~ The zest of 1 lemon (or 1/2 tsp. lemon extract, if you prefer)
~ 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
~ 2.5 cups flour
~ 4 tbsp. baking powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, cinnamon
~ Pinch of nutmeg
~ 2 cups blueberries

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit.
~ In a large beaker, combine the first 7 ingredients (sugar through vinegar), and mix thoroughly.
~ In a separate bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients, then add the blueberries and give them a good stir around to give them some grip in the batter.
~ Add the wet mixture to the dry and mix with a rubber spatula until combined; don't overmix or your muffins will be tough!
~ Spoon the batter into prepared muffin tins; you want each cup to be nearly full (I got 15 muffins from this recipe, but your mileage may vary).
~ Bake at 375 for 20-25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out clean.
~ Allow to cool for 5 minutes in the pan, then transfer to a cooling rack. Eat warm or at room temperature, with jam, margarine, or all by themselves.

MacGyver Risotto

2011-02-14T03:00:00.000-05:00

I'm calling this MacGyver risotto because it started out as one of those "I haven't been shopping in almost two weeks and am down to some wilting asparagus, a cup and a half of rice, and a handful of other stuff" meals. Fortunately, the rice was Arborio, and a quick Google led me to a recipe for asparagus risotto that looked like just the thing; all I had to do was eliminate the parmesan cheese, and sub margarine for the butter. I also added some extra seasonings, and threw in a handful of frozen peas towards the end to make things more interesting. I think the key to this dish's success is to cook and puree some of the vegetables at the beginning, then add them to the risotto in the last few minutes; this had the effect of suffusing the whole with the very essence of asparagusness. (Next time, I'm planning to try it with roasted red peppers. You could also stir in a little fresh lemon juice if you like; I didn't happen to have any on hand.) Anyway, once the eight remaining carrots were roasted, and the half head of leftover kale sauteed with some garlic, we wound up with an excellent dinner. And I didn't have to use a single paper clip!

MacGyver Risotto
Ingredients
~ 1 lb. asparagus, cut into 1/2" pieces
~ 3/4 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk (or broth)
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast (optional)
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance (or other vegan margarine)
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1.5 cups arborio rice
~ 1/2 tsp. salt
~ 1 tsp. basil
~ 1/2 tsp. tarragon
~ A few good grinds of black pepper
~ 3/4 cup white wine
~ 4-6 cups vegetable broth (I'm currently all about the Better Than Bouillon "No Chicken" flavor)
~ 4 large scallions, chopped
~ 1/2 cup frozen green peas

Directions
~ Steam half the asparagus pieces until quite soft, at least 5 minutes. Rinse quickly under cold water, then place the cooked asparagus in a food processor, add the soy milk and nutritional yeast, and puree until smooth. Set aside.

~ Put the broth in a medium saucepan over low heat and bring to a simmer.

~ In a large, deep, nonstick skillet over medium heat, combine the oil and 1 tablespoon of the margarine. Add the garlic and cook about one minute.

~ Add the rice, basil, tarragon, and black pepper; cook, stirring, until glossy, about 2 to 3 minutes.

~ Add the white wine, stir, and let the liquid bubble away; now add the salt.

~ Begin adding the warmed stock, 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring continually. Each time the stock has just about evaporated, add another 1/2 cup.(NB someone should be bringing you glasses of wine/refreshing your cocktail during this part of the process.)

~ After about 15 minutes, add the remaining asparagus pieces and the scallions, continuing to add stock as necessary.

~ In about 5 minutes, taste the rice; it should be tender, but still have a bit of texture or "bite." (It could take as long as 30 minutes total to reach this stage.)

~ Stir in the frozen peas and the asparagus/soy milk/nooch puree, and cook another minute or so.

~ Remove from heat, and stir in the remaining 1 tbsp. margarine. Stir briskly, taste for seasoning, and serve immediately.

O, You Beautiful Dal

2011-02-12T03:00:00.000-05:00

Oh, you beautiful dal, you great big beautiful dal.
Let me put some rice about you, I don't want to eat without you.

What can I say? At the risk of sounding immodest, this is the best dal I have ever made, which is sayin' summat. It came about in the ordinary, organic fashion - i.e. based on whatever was available in the kitchen - but I'm very glad I took the trouble to jot things down during the process, because the finished product was so good that it will certainly be appearing again. (In fact, it's got "company food" written all over it, so future dinner guests: start getting excited!)

Chana Dal with Kale and Coconut
Ingredients
~ 1-2 tbsp. oil
~ 1 tbsp. panch phoran
~ 1 tsp. salt
~ 1 tsp. each: cumin seeds, black mustard seeds
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 heaping tbsp. each: minced garlic, freshly grated ginger
~ 1 tsp. each: chat masala, cumin, fenugreek, chili powder, salt
~ 1/2 tsp. turmeric
~ 2 large carrots, sliced lengthwise and then into half-moons
~ 1 10 oz package mushrooms, sliced (about 2 cups)
~ 1.5 cups chana dal (yellow split peas)
~ 1-2 dried red chili peppers, chopped fine (fresh are fine, too; I just happened to have dried)
~ 1 14 oz. can light coconut milk
~ 1 14 oz. can regular coconut milk
~ 1.5 cups water
~ 1 small head kale, chopped (about 6 loosely packed cups)

Directions
~ In a colander or sieve, rinse and pick over the dal, then place in a bowl and cover with cold water; allow to soak for at least an hour (the longer the better).
~ In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat and and toast the panch phoran, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds until they begin to pop (about 1-2 minutes; you might want to cover the pot for this part).
~ Add the onions and cook about 3-4 minutes, until softened.

~ Add the garlic, ginger and dry seasonings; saute for another minute or so.
~ Stir in the carrots and mushrooms, and cook about 5 minutes.

~ Drain the chana dal, then add it to the pot along with the chopped red chilis. Stir to combine, and cook another 2 minutes
~ Pour in the coconut milk and 1.5 cups of water; cover the pot, and bring to a boil.
~ Reduce heat to low, crack the lid a few inches, and cook for about 50 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so to prevent sticking. (If it looks thicker than you'd like, you can add a little extra water, but remember that we're not making soup!)
~ Add the chopped kale and cook for another 10 minutes.

~ Serve hot over basmati rice.

Gobi Manchurian

2011-02-05T16:20:00.000-05:00

Cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education.
~ Mark Twain

   You can say a lot of things about cauliflower (no, really, you can!): it's nutritious, versatile, and loaded with fiber. One word that might not spring immediately to mind, however, is "exciting." This may have something to do with its complexion, which is admittedly rather pale and wan in comparison to its more popular cruciferous cousin, broccoli. It may also have something to do with memories of childhood dinners in which it featured as a bland, overcooked, mushy white mass, adorned with nothing more than a little butter and salt. I confess that the only presentation for which I could summon any enthusiasm was my mom's cheesy casserole version, in which the vegetable was smothered in a thick, creamy sauce, topped with breadcrumbs, and baked (and even then, I preferred it when she used - you guessed it - broccoli).
   It was only when I was introduced to the wonderful world of Indian food that the scales fell from my eyes and I began to appreciate cauliflower's many possibilities. Roasted, as part of a curry, fried as pakoras, or encased in a dosa, this former wallflower becomes something else entirely. Today's recipe is a case in point: if we agree with the esteemed Mr. Clemens that cauliflower has been to college, then this is what it looks like after it's been to graduate school. Technically speaking, Gobi Manchurian is not so much an Indian dish as an example of "Indian Chinese" cooking; the adaptation and appropriation of Chinese seasonings and techniques to suite Indian tastes (and available ingredients). The boffins at Wikipedia tell us that this hybrid cuisine was developed by Chinese immigrants living in Calcutta, and that this particular dish is "entirely a creation of Chinese restaurants in India, and bears little resemblance to traditional Chinese cuisine. It is said to have been invented in 1975 by Nelson Wang; Wang described his invention process as starting from the basic ingredients of an Indian dish, namely chopped garlic, ginger, and green chilis, but next, instead of adding garam masala, he put in soy sauce instead." All I can say for certain is that this the best use I have ever found for cauliflower - including Mom's cheesy casserole - and I think you will agree. My one and only complaint was that it disappeared all too quickly: a fault which can be easily remedied by doubling the recipe. So what are you waiting for? Eat your educated cabbage; it's good for you!

Gobi Manchurian

The Cauliflower
Ingredients
~ 1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-size florets
~ 1/3 cup chickpea flour
~ 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
~ 1/3 cup corn starch
~ 1 tsp. garlic powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: chili powder, cayenne pepper, freshly ground black pepper
~ 2 tbsp. soy sauce
~ 1/2 cup water
~ Canola oil for frying

Directions
~ In a bowl, sift together the flours and all the dry seasonings.
~ Add the soy sauce and water and mix to make a batter.
~ Cook the cauliflower pieces in salted, boiling water for about 3-4 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, then pat dry and set aside.
~ In a deep frying pan or wok, heat about 1 inch of oil  over medium-high heat.
~ Working in batches, dip the cauliflower pieces in the batter, then fry until golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. As each batch is cooked, transfer it to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.
~ Now that all the cauliflower has been fried, you can make...

The Sauce
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped fine
~ 1 heaping tbsp. each: minced garlic, freshly grated ginger
~ 3 tbsp. soy sauce
~ 2 tsp. hot sauce (or to taste)
~ 1/2 cup tomato paste
~ 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
~ 1 cup water

Directions
~ Drain all but about a tablespoon of the oil from the wok, and sauté the onions over medium-high until soft, about 5 minutes.
~ Add the garlic and ginger, and cook another minute or two.
~ Stir in the soy sauce, hot sauce, tomato paste and sesame oil; combine thoroughly and cook for about a minute.
~ Gradually add the water, stirring constantly, and continue to simmer until the sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning (you might want a little more hot sauce).
~ Return the fried cauliflower to the wok and stir into the sauce; cook another minute or two to make sure it's all coated and everything is hot. Serve immediately, as a first course, a side dish, or all on its beautiful own on a bed of fluffy rice; if you like, you can sprinkle on a little extra grated ginger and/or chopped cilantro for garnish.

Timpano, or "Mambo Vegetaliano"

2011-02-01T03:00:00.000-05:00

This quixotic enterprise had its beginnings in a conversation about "the best food movies." Our short list included Babette's Feast (1987) and Eat Drink Man Woman (1994), but my hands-down favorite was Big Night (1996), with Tony Shalhoub and Stanley Tucci as Italian immigrant brothers Primo and Secundo, running a small restaurant on the Jersey Shore in the 1950s. (The restaurant is called "Paradise." I'll refrain from drawing any Dante or Milton-related parallels; just go watch the film, and then we can talk!) I won't spoil things by giving away the whole plot, but suffice to say that food - its quality, preparation, and the vast number of things it evokes and represents - sits squarely at its emotional center. The climax of the film is a huge, elaborate dinner party prepared in anticipation of the restaurant's most famous guest, Louis Prima (a word of praise from whom could save the brothers' struggling business, along with their shot at the American Dream).

Among the multiple courses prepared for this feast is Timpano di Maccheroni, an outrageously baroque concoction consisting of multiple layers of pasta, sauce, sausages, meatballs, and cheese, encased in a pastry dome. (Full disclosure: the traditional recipe also features sliced hard-boiled eggs, but since that would have made me gag even before I was vegan, we're just going to forget all about it. Gross.) Anyway, while discussing the awesomeness of Big Night, it occurred to me that a veganized timpano - so called because it looks like a drum, if you hadn't already figured that out - might be an excellent project for a snowbound afternoon. Since we have had no shortage of those here in central Massachusetts, it wasn't long before an occasion presented itself; I did a little research and lo, within a few hours, the daunting task was accomplished. I'm bound to say that although I employed a number of convenient shortcuts (unlike Primo, who made his own pasta, sausage, and meatballs...from meat!), this was not an endeavor for the faint of heart; if you're going to do this, you should probably clear the afternoon.

On the other hand, the results were pretty spectacular, and now that I've done it, I'm going to plan a whole party around the next one. Cocktail dresses, skinny ties, Louis Prima on the hi-fi, Campari and soda aperitifs, extravagant antipasta, and gallons of Chianti. As Secundo's frenemy Pascal so succinctly puts it, "You must bite your teeth into the ass of life and drag it to you! HEY!"

Timpano

The Dough

Ingredients

~ 4 cups all purpose flour
~ 1 tsp. salt
~ 6 tbsp. cold margarine or shortening
~ Egg replacer for 4 eggs
~ 1/2 cup ice water

Directions

~ In a bowl, mix the flour, salt, and cold margarine, and mix with your fingers until it resembles coarse bread crumbs.
~ Add the egg replacer and enough of the ice water to make a soft dough.
~ Knead for a minute or two, then wrap in plastic and set aside in the refrigerate.

The Red Sauce

Ingredients

~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 cup diced onions
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 cup chopped mushrooms
~ 4 good handfuls baby spinach, chopped fine
~ 1 tsp. oregano
~ 3 cups marinara sauce, prepared or homemade

Directions

~ In a large, deep skillet, sate the onions, garlic, and mushrooms in the oil over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

~ Add the spinach and oregano and stir until just wilted.
~ Add the marinara and cook another few minutes. Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.

The White Sauce

Ingredients

~ 1 tbsp. vegan margarine
~ 1 tbsp. flour
~ 1/4 cup vegan parmesan or nutritional yeast (I used Galaxy Soy Vegan Parmesan Topping)
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, basil
~ Pinch nutmeg
~ 1.5 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1.5 cups vegetable stock (I used mushroom broth from soaking dried porcini, which was awesome)

Directions

~ Combine the soy milk and broth, and bring to nearly boiling in the microwave.
~ In a saucepan, melt the margarine over low heat, then add the flour and stir to make a roux.
~ Raise the heat to medium, and gradually begin adding the heated milk/broth mixture, stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
~ Add the vegan parm, salt, basil, and nutmeg, and continue cooking another 5 minutes or so, until slightly thickened. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Also
~ 1 lb. penne or ziti, cooked and drained according to package directions
~ 1 12 oz. package vegan meatballs, prepared according to package directions (Trader Joe's or Nate's are good)
~ 3 vegan Italian sausages, cubed and browned in a little oil (I like Field Roast)
~ 2 cups grated, vegan mozzarella (I used Daiya)
~ 1 cup vegan parmesan
~ A large, oven safe bowl, generously greased
~ Extra red sauce, for serving (optional)

The Assembly
~ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit.
~ Mix 2/3 of the cooked pasta with the red sauce, and the remaining pasta with the white sauce, and set aside.
~ On a large, floured board, roll out the dough into a large, very thin circle (I'm talking about a maximum 1/8" thickness; thinner, if you can manage it. It should be large enough to fill the oiled bowl, with sufficient overlap to cover the top completely. You will have some extra, but no worries - just snip it off and discard. Better to have too much than not enough!)
~ Place half the red-sauced pasta in the bottom of the dough-lined bowl, and press down gently but firmly with the flat of your hands.
~ Arrange half of the cooked meatballs and half of the sausage on top of the pasta, press down again, then sprinkle on 1 cup of the Daiya and 1/2 cup of the vegan parmesan.
~ Make a layer of the white-sauced pasta layer, then top with the remaining meatballs, sausage, Daiya, and parm, pressing down with each layer.
~ Finish with the remaining red-sauced pasta, then press down on the whole mess with your dainty little hands one last time.
~ Fold the overhanging dough over the top and seal. You might want to dampen your fingers a little to do this; you don't want your timpano to leak.
~ Place the bowl on a baking sheet, and cook at 350 degrees for an hour, until the dough is lightly browned and firm to the touch.
~ Remove the bowl from the oven, and allow to rest for about 15-20 minutes.
~ Cover the top of the timpano with a large platter, and very carefully invert the whole business. Say a little prayer, and then gently remove the bowl from the (hopefully) beauteous, golden dome. Allow the timpano to rest another 15-20 minutes or so.
~ With a long, sharp knife, slice like a pie into individual portions.
~ Please note that this dish is so ridiculously dense and filling that a simple green salad is really all the accompaniment you could conceivably need to make this The Most Outrageous Italian Meal Ever. That said, you can serve some extra marinara at the table if you like, and a glass or two of Chianti wouldn't come amiss, either.

Behold!

Tempeh Hash with Tarragon Sauce

2011-01-25T03:00:00.000-05:00

"Tis an ill cook that cannot lick [her] own fingers."

'Struth! I made this finger-lickin' good brunch on an underslept Sunday morning, when the mercury was predicted to top out at a miserable 16° and my ambitions for the day consisted of a hot bath, Jacobean revenge tragedy, and a nap. In light of so taxing an agenda, some hearty fortification was clearly indicated, and with one last package of my beloved Henry's tempeh - *sniff* - languishing in the refrigerator, a Mom's Dineresque, hash-like application sounded like perfection on a plate. In half an hour, this amalgamation of yumminess was seated cozily atop toasted English muffins; with the addition of a lovely, herbal tarragon sauce, it proved sufficient to take us all the way through to dinner (even with all that bathing, reading, and napping going on!).

The Hash
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 large stalk celery, diced
~ 1 small (or 1/2 large) red bell pepper, diced
~ 6 oz. mushrooms, chopped (about 1 cup)
~ 1 8 oz. package tempeh, diced

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, thyme, marjoram, sage, smoked paprika

~ A few grinds of black pepper

~ 3 small potatoes, baked in the oven or microwave
~ 1/4 cup vegetable broth or water

Directions
~ In a large, deep skillet, saute the onion in the olive oil, over medium high heat, for about 2 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, celery, and bell pepper, and saute another few minutes.
~ Add the mushrooms, tempeh, and seasonings and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally.
~ Chop the cooked potatoes, and add to the pan with the broth. Mix thoroughly, and cook another 10 minutes, stirring every couple minutes or so. If things get sticky, add a little more broth or water to get things moving again. (You want a crust to just begin to form on the bottom, at which point you mix it all up and let it happen again.)
~ Remove from heat and start making...

The Sauce
Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. Earth Balance or other vegan margarine
~ 2 tbsp. flour
~ 1 tsp. each: dry mustard, tarragon
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, garlic powder, turmeric
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1.5 cups vegetable broth
~ 1 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ Toasted English muffins

Directions
~ In a small bowl, combine the flour, seasonings, and the nutritional yeast.
~ In a beaker, combine the vegetable broth and the soy milk, and heat for a few minutes in the microwave.
~ In a saucepan, melt the margarine over medium-low heat. Begin adding the flour/seasoning/nooch mixture to make a roux, stirring constantly.
~ Gradually add the broth/milk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent lumps.
~ Raise the heat to medium and cook another 5 minutes or so, until slightly thickened.
~ Serve the hash on top of split, toasted English muffins, with the sauce ladled over the top.

"Chicken" a la King (along with some musings on building a "creative temple" of conscience)

2011-01-20T03:00:00.000-05:00

A few days ago, I had the quixotic notion to veganize this 1960s dinner classic, and briefly entertained the waggish thought of christening it "Chicken a la Martin Luther King, Jr." This was because I was A. cooking it while snowed in by a blizzard that hit us on the day after his birthday, and B. listening to/thinking a lot about him in the past few days (as one does at this time of year). Of course, such a move might have been seen as not only trivializing but lame, and I opted to eschew so precious and cutesy an approach. That said, I do want to take a few minutes to think about Dr. King, and about his message of freedom and justice for all. (Hang in there, we'll get to the recipe, too; patience, as the saying goes, is a virtue.)

“Whenever you set out to build a creative temple, whatever it may be, you must face the fact that there is a tension at the heart of the universe between good and evil." This is a compelling notion; whether or not we believe in a religious interpretation of concepts like "good" and "evil," most of us can relate to the notion of an internal struggle between what we would do, and what we actually do. As part of his role as a civil rights leader, King was a passionate advocate for the poor and disenfranchised, and he also spoke out against the war in Vietnam before what became known as the "peace movement" was getting much press. As a result, he came in for a fair bit of abuse for stepping out of what critics termed his "field," but despite harsh criticism (and increasing pressure from his own government), he continued to stress a recurring theme: the importance of being clear in one's own conscience. Again and again, he encouraged his listeners to "get [their] hearts right," in order to work towards a place where the person in the mirror is someone we are not ashamed to acknowledge, although we inevitably fall short of perfection.

Shortly before he was assassinated, King preached a sermon - the opening line of which is quoted above - in which he spoke of the constant, uphill battle to be compassionate, kind, and charitable when "something keeps pulling on you, trying to get you to hate." He described this struggle as "a civil war...a schizophrenia" going on inside each and every one of us, but he also addressed the importance of trying to be our best selves, of being able to honestly say that we are doing our best to be the people we wish to be, in spite of that "something" pulling on us to be just the opposite.

Sometimes it seems like our increasingly polarized political climate actively encourages us to feel hatred: for those who are different from us, who disagree with us, whose choices make us examine our own behavior in uncomfortable ways, or whose beliefs threaten our assumptions of how things "should" be. I often think that, for our children, gay marriage will be the social issue on which they look back and say, "what the hell was that even about?" in the same way that my generation views the civil rights movement: as a cause so basic, so obvious, that the very idea of its being disputed seems ludicrous. I like to imagine that in another generation, the idea of animal rights will occupy a similar place in the public consciousness, and that we will all be aghast that sentient creatures could be treated so cruelly in a supposedly "civilized" society.

There are signs that, as a culture, we are beginning to think more carefully about what, how, and who we eat, and it's worth noting that King's own son, Dexter Scott King, has been a vegan and an animal rights activist since the 1980s, while his widow, Coretta Scott King, was inspired to stop consuming animal products in the 1990s, as part of her lifelong commitment to nonviolence. I hope that one day people will appreciate and acknowledge that all living creatures should have the right to be free from torture, exploitation, and objectification; as Mahatma Ghandi famously put it, "The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." In the meantime, all any of us can do is our best, and hope that a time may come when "somebody [will] be able to say of us... 'He [or she] may not have reached the highest height, he may not have realized all of his dreams, but he tried.' Isn’t that a wonderful thing for somebody to say about you? 'He tried to be a good man [or woman]. He tried to be a just man. He tried to be an honest man. His heart was in the right place.'” Amen.

And that's why the "chicken" in my Chicken a la King is made of soybeans. So now (because my word is my bond), let's cook some dinner!

"Chicken" a la King

Ingredients

~ 2 cups soy curls

~ 3 cups vegetable broth

~ 2 bay leaves

~ 1 tsp. tarragon

~ 1/2 tsp. each: thyme, marjoram

~ Pinch of nutmeg

~ A few grinds of black pepper

~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance

~ 2 cups chopped shallots

~ 1/2 cup finely diced celery

~ 2 cups chopped mushrooms

~ 1/4 cup flour

~ 1/4 tsp. turmeric

~ 1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp. dry sherry

~ 2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)

~ 2.5 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk

~ 1 tsp. corn starch

~ 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

~ 1 tbsp. parsley

Directions

~ In a beaker, combine the soy curls, broth, bay leaves, salt, tarragon, thyme, marjoram, nutmeg, and black pepper.
~ Cover and bring to a boil in the microwave, or in a pot on the stove top.
~ Allow to sit, covered, for at least an hour (the longer the better), until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

~ Drain the soy curls and set aside, reserving the marinade.

~ Combine the marinade with 2 cups of the soy milk, and heat to nearly boiling. Set aside.

~ In a large, deep skillet, melt the margarine over medium-high heat; saute the shallots, celery, and mushrooms for 5-7 minutes, until softened.

~ Stir in the flour and the turmeric, and cook for about 1 minute.

~ Add the 1/4 cup sherry and the white truffle oil (if using), and cook another minute.

~ Begin adding the marinade/soy milk mixture about a cup at a time, stirring constantly with each addition to prevent lumps.

~ In a separate bowl, combine the remaining 1/2 cup soy milk and the corn starch, then add to the sauce. Mix thoroughly and cook another 5 minutes, until slightly thickened (we're looking for a gravy-like texture).

~ Add the drained soy curls and cook another 5 minutes or so, until hot.

~ Stir in the remaining 2 tbsp. sherry, the lemon juice, and the parsley.

~ Serve hot over rice, noodles, or (my strong recommendation) biscuits. Here's an easy-peasy recipe:
http://elizaveganpage.blogspot.com/2009/10/rainy-day-biscuits.html.

Chocolate Orange Muffins

2011-01-15T03:00:00.000-05:00

When I was a kid, a Terry's Chocolate Orange was one of those treats that you could only get in England, or when it emerged from the suitcase of someone who'd just been there. Nowadays, they can be found in the "import" aisle of most mainstream American supermarkets, but I still have fond memories of those coveted, foil-wrapped spheres, with their embossed, tightly-packed wedges. These muffins have a taste very like that venerable piece of confectionery, only interpreted as a wholesome, home-baked treat. This constitutes a total win since - despite their gooey, orangey, chocolatey goodness - they actually contain comparatively little fat or sugar, and the fact that they are muffins makes them a perfectly respectable option for breakfast (which we all know is the most important meal of the day, innit?). This recipe makes a dozen, but the batch I made the other day disappeared in less than 24 hours, so you might want to double it, just to make sure that you actually get to eat one.

Chocolate Orange Muffins
Ingredients
~ 2.5 cups whole wheat pastry flour
~ 1 tbsp. baking powder
~ 1/2 tsp. each: salt, cinnamon
~ 1/2 cup chocolate chips (I use Ghirardelli semi-sweet)
~ 1/2 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk
~ 1/2 cup orange juice
~ 1/3 cup sugar
~ 1/4 cup canola oil
~ 1/4 cup applesauce
~ 1 tsp. each: vanilla extract, orange extract

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a muffin tin with cooking spray.
~ In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and chocolate chips.
~ In a separate bowl, mix the soy milk, juice, sugar, oil, applesauce, and vanilla and orange extracts.
~ Add the wet mixture to the dry ingredients and mix to combine.
~ Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins, and bake for 20-25 minutes at 375 degrees, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
~ Allow to cool briefly in the pan, then remove to a cooling rack. These are yummy served warm or at room temperature.

Classic Stuffed Shells

2011-01-10T03:00:00.000-05:00

Si, Big Anthony, it's another casserole! This time it's classic stuffed pasta shells like Mama used to make (and like my friend Strega Nona would have, if she'd stepped away from her magic spaghetti pot long enough for it to occur to her). The addition of spinach to the filling makes a nice contrast with the white pasta and the red sauce, creating an effect somewhat reminiscent of - GASP! - the Italian flag! So make a pan of this, a green salad, and some garlic bread, and I can virtually guarantee that everyone in your house will say - like the good people of Calabria - "Oh, grazie; thank you, thank you!" (Even if you're not Italian. Or a witch.)

Classic Stuffed Shells

The Sauce
Ingredients
~ 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
~ 1 small onion, chopped fine
~ 1 carrot, small dice
~ 1 stalk celery, small dice
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: basil, oregano, marjoram
~ Freshly ground black pepper
~ 3 tbsp. tomato paste
~ 1 28-ounce can fire-roasted pureed tomatoes
~ 2 cups vegetable broth or water

Directions
~ Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and saute until soft but not brown, about 5 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, salt, basil, oregano, marjoram, and black pepper; cook another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
~ Add the tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste for seasoning, set aside to cool, and puree with an immersion blender until smooth.

The Filling
Ingredients
~ 1 cup raw cashews, soaked in boiling water at least 30 minutes
~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu
~ 1 package vegan mozzarella, grated (I used Teese)
~ 1/4 cup lemon juice
~ 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each salt, basil
~ Fresh black pepper
~ 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1 .5 oz. package baby spinach (about 4 cups)

Directions
~ Drain the cashews, combine with remaining ingredients in a food processor, and blend to a thick, smooth, delicious paste. (Easy, wasn't it?)

Also...
~ 1 package jumbo pasta shells, cooked and drained according to package directions.

The Assembly
~ Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a baking dish with cooking spray.
~ Spread about 1 cup of the sauce in the bottom of the baking dish.
~ Stuff the cheese mixture into the cooked shells, and arrange in the baking dish, open-side up.
~ Pour the remaining sauce over the shells, cover tightly with foil, and bake for 30 minutes.
~ Remove the foil, raise the heat to 400, and bake uncovered for another 15 minutes.
~ Allow to cool slightly before serving.

Sweet Potato, Chard, and Lentil Curry

2010-12-29T03:00:00.001-05:00

This is a warm, comforting, mild - and healthy! - curry that makes a nice change from all those heavy, starchy, traditional western "holiday" foods that many of us have been eating this past month or so. I made this the day after our first proper blizzard of the year, which just happened to occur on St Stephen's Day. Served with saffron basmati rice and a dry-fried lotus root curry (recipe to follow, once it's been rationalized and typed up), it made a perfect meal on a cold winter's night when the snow lay round about, deep and crisp and even.

Sweet Potato, Chard, and Lentil Curry
Ingredients

~ 4 cups lite coconut milk (2 cans)

~ 3 cups broth (I'm currently addicted to the Better Than Bouillon "No Chicken" flavor)

~ 2 tbsp. oil
~ 1 tsp. black mustard seeds
~ 1 large onion, chopped

~ 1 tbsp. each: minced garlic, fresh ginger

~ 1 tbsp. curry powder
~ 1 tsp. each: cumin, fenugreek, salt
~ 1/2 tsp. cayenne (more to taste)
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 3 tomatoes, chopped
~ 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1" cubes
~ 2 cups lentils, soaked (the longer they soak, the quicker they'll cook)
~ 1 large bunch Swiss or rainbow chard, chopped

Directions
~ In a large beaker, combine the coconut milk and broth and bring to almost boiling (a few minutes in the microwave).
~ In a large, deep pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat and add the mustard seeds. Stir them about a bit, and wait until they start to pop (be careful!).
~ Add the onions, garlic, ginger and dry seasonings. Stir to combine and cook about 5 minutes, until the onions are glassy and the whole mess is fragrant.
~ Add the tomatoes, and cook another minute or two before adding the sweet potatoes and 2 cups of the coconut milk/broth mixture.
~ Cover and cook over medium heat, about 10 minutes.
~ Add the soaked, drained lentils and the remaining coconut milk/broth mixture. Combine thoroughly, cover, and bring to a boil.
~ Lower the heat to simmer, crack the lid about an inch, and cook for 25-30 minutes, until the lentils are cooked and the sweet potatoes are tender.
~ Stir in the chard, allow it to just wilt, and serve hot, ladled over basmati rice.

Merry Christmas, and a very happy new year!

2010-12-25T14:38:00.000-05:00

Many thanks to all the people who have the patience to read my ramblings, who take the trouble to try my recipes, and who spare the time to offer such wonderful support and feedback. I wish everyone a very happy holiday season, and all good things for 2011. (And, as Tiny Tim observed: God bless us, every one!)

Wintry, Shroomy Stroganoff

2010-12-21T03:00:00.004-05:00

About a week ago, after picking up our - beautiful, fragrant, eight-foot-tall! - Christmas tree, we stopped to refuel at the monthly all-you-can-eat buffet at our local Loving Hut (http://lovinghut.us/about.html). Before leaving, we checked out the (rather dizzying) array of fake meat in the freezer case, and eventually came away with a package of May Wah "vegetarian pepper steak." In considering what to do with it, it occurred to me that - since it's been really, really cold here lately - something involving noodles might be in order, and "beef" stroganoff sounded perfect. A quick Google search revealed that there are about a million recipes available, but I basically started with the one in the Fannie Farmer Cookbook and went from there. Since the original is extremely timid (a tablespoon of minced onion? Seriously?), I had some upgrading to do, but the end result was extremely satisfying, and gets my unqualified recommendation for those bleak, mid-winter nights when you want a hearty, homey dinner like Mama used to make. We liked the May Wah stuff, but if you don't have access to it, you could easily substitute some other vegan "meat" like seitan, Gardein, reconstituted soy curls, or just skip it altogether and use extra mushrooms, which to my mind are really the main point of this dish, anyway. It's very filling, so you're sure to have leftovers unless you're feeding an army; stroganoff is usually served over noodles, but a fluffy bed of mashed potatoes would work just as well. Since no plate looks right without something green on it, I steamed some string beans to have on the side, drizzled with melted Earth Balance and lemon juice. And Bob's your uncle: dinner!

Wintry Shroomy Stroganoff

Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. Earth Balance
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, diced
~ 1 lb. fake "beef," sliced thin
~ 1 lb. mushrooms, sliced (2 lbs., if omitting beef substitute)
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, parsley
~ 2 tsp. each: paprika, dill
~ Pinch of nutmeg
~ A few generous grinds of black pepper
~ 1 tbsp. vegan Worcestershire sauce
~ 1 cup vegetable broth
~ 2 cups vegan sour cream or plain, unsweetened soy yogurt
~ 1 lb. noodles, cooked and drained according to package directions (vegan "egg"-style noodles would be perfect), or a big batch of your favorite mashed potatoes

Directions
~ In a large, deep skillet, melt the EB and the olive oil together, then saute the onions over medium heat, about 5 minutes.
~ Add the "beef" (if using) and cook about 5 minutes more.
~ Add the seasonings and the mushrooms, stir to combine, and cook - you guessed it! - 5 minutes.
~ Add the broth and the Worcestershire sauce, cover the pan, and allow to simmer for 10 minutes.
~ Stir in the sour cream, mix thoroughly, and remove from heat.
~ If using noodles, toss them with a little margarine or oil, salt, pepper, and parsley.
~ Place the noodles (or mashed potatoes) on plates, ladle the stroganoff on top, and serve garnished with a little extra parsley and a grind or two of black pepper.

Tofu Scrambly Breakfast Hash

2010-12-17T03:00:00.001-05:00

Recently, tofu scramble and I have been enjoying a sort of passionate second honeymoon. It's not that we were ever properly estranged, or even got to the point where counseling was called for; it was more that I'd become distracted by other things. (Oh, all right, I'll admit it: I've been seeing other brunches, but it wasn't serious.) In the last month or so, however, I've been eyeing the scramble in a fresh and attractive light. I don't know if it's been working out or what, but suddenly the appeal of a skillet full of mashed tofu and veggies, generously dusted with nooch, has gone through the roof, and - to exhaust the metaphor (phew!) - I'm interested in exploring all kinds of exciting new possibilities.

This particular interpretation is really more of a scramble/hash amalgam, but this should by no means be seen as a mésalliance, since its end result was altogether more "love child" than "bastard." It came about because there was a big bunch of neglected kale in the refrigerator; when considering (yet another) scramble for breakfast, I thought I might as well toss it in. In the event, the kale sort of overwhelmed the measly 1/2 pound of smoked tofu we had on hand, so I chopped up a few Field Roast sausages, added them to the mix, and cooked the whole business to a crispy fare-thee-well. The finished product was tasty, and - yes! - nutritious, without losing that hearty, filling, warm-you-up-from-the-inside feeling you get from the best diner breakfasts. We had ours with roasted potatoes, and toast with our own home-made marmalade, which made the perfect fuel for a day of pre-holiday preparations. (And, tofu scramble? I promise to never again lose touch with how much you mean to me!)

Tofu Scrambly Breakfast Hash

Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 2 carrots, diced
~ 1 small (or half of a large) green bell pepper, diced
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic

~ 1 tsp. each: salt, paprika, poultry seasoning

~ A few generous grinds of black pepper

~ 1 tsp. hot sauce (more to taste)

~ 1 head kale, stripped, cleaned, and chopped fine
~ 1/2 lb. smoked tofu, mashed (or use plain, firm tofu; I just happened to have smoked)
~ 2 vegan sausages, chopped (we had Field Roast Italian, but suit yourself!)
~ 1/3 to 1/2 cup nutritional yeast
~ 1/4 to 1/2 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk, as needed to prevent sticking

Directions
~ In a large skillet, saute the onion and carrot in the olive oil over medium heat, about 2 minutes.
~ Add the garlic, the bell pepper, and the seasonings, and cook another 2-3 minutes.
~ Add the kale, combine thoroughly, and cook until wilted.

~ Add the mashed tofu and the sausage, and cook about 5 minutes more.~ Stir in the nutritional yeast, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook another 10-15 minutes, stirring every couple minutes or so. If things get sticky, add a little of the soy milk to get things moving again. You want a crust to just begin to form on the bottom, at which point you mix it all up and let it happen again.

~ Serve hot with your preferred accompaniments.

Easy As Pot Pie

2010-12-11T03:00:00.000-05:00

Here's a health to the ox and to his right eye,

Pray God send our master a good Christmas pie,

A good Christmas pie as e'er I did see.

In the Wassail bowl we'll drink unto thee.

~ The Gloucestershire Wassail

It is my firm and considered belief that (almost) anything can be improved upon by being encased in, topped with, or otherwise surrounded by a layer of pastry. This universal truth lies at the root of my abiding passion for pasties, samosas, empanadas, and anything en croute, to say nothing of that classic example of Mom's Home Cooking, the pot pie. My mom was what I can only call a dab hand at pastry, and she made chicken or beef pot pie pretty often when I was little, probably because it was a good way to use up leftovers. Oh, god, how I loved those biscuity top crusts; if I could have managed it, I would happily have stolen the entire "lid" for myself, and left the filling for everyone else (minus most of the gravy, of course).

Considering my love for savory pastries of all types, one might imagine that I developed a facility for making them at an early age, but one would be mistaken; as with many things at which my mother excelled (gardening, sewing, knitting), the pie crust gene seemed to have passed me by. Until recently, when I've been emboldened to roll up my sleeves and roll out - if not in - some dough, in the hope that practice might in time make perfect. While I still wouldn't attempt some fancy-pants thing like pâte à choux, I'm happy to report that I can now provide my household with all the pasties, biscuits and savory pies our greedy, carb-obsessed little hearts might desire.

This particular pie came about as a vehicle for the leftover mushroom gravy from Thanksgiving (http://elizaveganpage .blogspot .com/2010/11/best-mushroom-gravy.html), and a worthwhile vehicle it proved. You could obviously use whatever "beef" substitute you fancy (seitan, Gardein, etc.), but I will say that soy curls are particularly good here because of their capacity to absorb liquid and flavor; similarly, you could toss in whatever veggies you have on hand, especially if you have leftover bits and pieces you want to use up. Pop this in the oven, make a batch of mashed potatoes, and in relatively short order you can be digging into a cold weather comfort meal par excellence: easy as (pot) pie!

"Beef" Pot Pie

The Filling
Ingredients
~ 1.5 cups soy curls
~ 3 cups mushroom gravy (recipe linked above)
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, chopped
~ 1 tbsp. garlic, minced
~ 2 carrots, cut into 1" slices on the diagonal
~ 2 stalks celery, diced
~ 2 bay leaves
~ 1 tsp. poultry seasoning
~ Black pepper to taste

~ 1/2 cup frozen green peas

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a casserole dish with cooking spray.
~ In a beaker, combine the soy curls and the gravy.
~ Cover and bring to a boil in the microwave, or in a pot on the stove top.
~ Allow to sit, covered, for at least an hour (the longer the better), until the liquid is mostly absorbed.
~ In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil and saute the onions and garlic over medium heat, about 2 minutes.
~ Add the carrots, celery, and seasonings, and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
~ Add the soy curls and mushroom gravy, and the frozen peas, combine thoroughly, and cook another 5 minutes or so, until everything is hot.
~ Remove the bay leaves, and transfer the mixture to your greased casserole. Set aside while you make...

The Crust
Ingredients
~ 2 cups all-purpose flour
~ 1/2 cup cold vegan margarine or shortening (I use a frozen stick of Earth Balance)
~ 8-12 tbsps. ice water

Directions
~ Put the flour in a mixing bowl, and cut or grate in the cold margarine or shortening. Mix with your fingers until you get a texture like course crumbs.
~ Add 8 tbsps. of the ice water and mix; add as much additional water as necessary to make a rough, slightly sticky dough.
~ Form the dough into a ball, then turn it out onto a floured board, and use a rolling pin to shape it fit your casserole dish. Carefully transfer the pastry on top of the filling, crimp around the edges to seal, and poke a few holes in the top with a fork.
~ Brush the top with a little plain, unsweetened soy milk, and bake at 375 for 20-25 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown. (NB that ovens vary - and mine tends to be a bit slow - so keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't burn!)
~ Allow to sit briefly before serving hot (accompanied, in a perfect world, by mashed potatoes).

Killer (Glazed) Tofu

2010-12-04T09:47:00.000-05:00

Fast food feels fuzzy
Cause it's made from stuff that's skuzzy
I always thought I was such a nerd
I refused to eat that strange bean curd
I wouldn't eat it, WOW! But it ate you!
Ah eeh ooh, Killer tofu.
Oooh eeh ooh, Killer tofu!

So sang The Beets, in the early '90s cartoon series, Doug. It's a catchy tune, but one that paints an inaccurate picture of tofu's agenda and/or capabilities: to my knowledge, there have been no known cases of tofu killing or eating anyone. On the other hand, "that strange bean curd" gets eaten a lot as a staple of many Asian cuisines, and of vegetarian diets all over out little blue planet. (Tofu brings magic happy!) At my house, we love us some tofu, and use it for all kinds of things: cashew ricotta, scrambled, pureed with chickpea flour to make frittatas, or as its own adorable self in a variety of dishes from miso soup to po' boys or vegan "fish" and chips. This sticky, sweet, slightly spicy glazed tofu is an easy way to turn out something pretty impressive in a short amount of time, making it perfect for a weeknight. Whip up some steamed rice and stir-fried green beans or bok choy, and you will have a - dare I say it? - killer dinner on the table in less than half an hour.

Killer (Glazed) Tofu

The Glaze
Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. cold water
~ 1 tbsp. cornstarch
~ 1/2 cup orange juice
~ 1/4 cup soy sauce
~ 1/4 cup rice vinegar
~ 2 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
~ 1 tsp. hot chili oil (or 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes)
~ 2 tbsp. agave nectar
~ 1 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tbsp. grated ginger

Directions
~ In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and cold water; set aside.
~ In a saucepan, combine all remaining ingredients, bring to a boil for about a minute.
~ Stir in the cornstarch mixture. whisk to combine, and remove from heat.

The Tofu

Ingredients

~ 1 lb. extra firm tofu, drained, pressed, and cut into cubes

~ 2 tbsp. canola oil

~ 4 scallions, thinly sliced

~ Salt and black pepper

Directions
~ In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the tofu cubes, sprinkle with salt and black pepper, and cook about 10 minutes over medium-high heat, turning occasionally to make sure each cube gets browned all over.
~ Add the scallions and cook another minute or two.

Now...
~ Pour the sauce over the tofu and give the whole business a stir to make sure everything is coated.
~ Turn the heat to low, cover, and cook another 10-15 minutes, until the sauce has formed a sticky glaze.
~ Serve over steamed rice. (We had ours with Szechuan green beans: highly recommended!)

Thanksgiving Leftover Samosa Pancakes

2010-11-30T03:00:00.000-05:00

Well first of all, I just want to say how happy I am to have completed my third Vegan Mofo! I love being vegan, and having the opportunity to participate in this great event with so many wonderful, creative people makes me even prouder to be a member of this community (nay - dare I say it? - movement). This feeling of pleasure and pride is only exacerbated by my honest amazement at having managed to post - yes! - every single day, in the midst of everything else on my family's agenda, both individual and collective.

Secondly, I freely admit to being exhausted. Between PhD applications, the first holiday without my mom, one kid in college, another in the school play, my partner's Horrendous Semester From Hell, and all this cooking/blogging, it may be time for a little take-out chez nous. So don't be surprised if I go back to posting only once a week or so as the remainder of The Blessed Holiday Season prepares to grab us all by the throat and beat us into (jolly! merry! joyous!) submission.

But (and thirdly). That doesn't mean I won't be cooking and - when worthy of the gentle reader's attention - sharing some new and interesting food. It just means that we all have other stuff we need to do, too. (Okay, kids?) And so. At the end of a month of traditional, western comfort foods, in the interest of giving you Something Completely Different, I hereby present my solution to a metric fucktonne of leftover mashed potatoes and butternut squash. Bon appetit, happy Vegan MoFo, and God bless us, every one!

Thanksgiving Leftover Samosa Pancakes

Ingredients
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 tsp. mustard seeds
~ 1 tbsp. each: minced garlic, grated ginger
~ 1 onion, finely chopped
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, curry powder, garam masala, cumin
~ A few generous grinds of black pepper
~ 1/2 cup frozen peas
~ 2 cups mashed potatoes
~ 1 cup mashed winer squash or sweet potatoes (or more potatoes, depending on your leftovers!)
~ 3/4 cup chickpea flour
~ Oil for cooking

Directions
~ In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat, then add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the onions, garlic, and ginger, and cook about 3 minutes, until golden.
~ Add the seasonings and the frozen peas and cook about 3 minutes more.
~ Mix in the potatoes and squash, and cook a few minutes, until any liquid has cooked off.
~ Remove from heat, then stir in the chickpea flour, combining thoroughly to make a stiff batter.
~ When the batter is cool enough to handle, heat a few tablespoons of oil in a skillet (cast iron is great). Form the batter into patties about 3" across and fry in barches of four over medium heat for about 2-3 minutes on each side.
~ As each batch is finished, transfer them to the preheated baking sheet to keep warm until you've used up all your batter.
~ Et voila: Thanksgiving leftovers, yet not Thanksgiving leftovers. We had ours with saffron rice, a selection of Indian pickles, and a green salad; the perfect antidote to the impending onslaught of (yet more) Holiday Foods.

~ Shantih.

Nigella's Back-from-the-(Vegan)-Bar-Snack

2010-11-29T03:00:00.000-05:00

This is another Food Network-inspired offering from that cheeky Domestic Goddess of Podge, Nigella Lawson. As I've mentioned previously, my response to Ms Lawson is a heady combination of bewildered astonishment and rapt fascination, and dishes like this are a big part of that. While we're not supposed to approve of this sort of thing, one can't help admiring the unbridled gusto - liberally laced with doubles entendres - with which she approaches everything to do with food and drink. To hear her tell it, she starts each day with a raging hangover, which she treats with some sort of breakfast cocktail and a massive plate of carbohydrates and fat, while testing the elasticity of one her innumerable cashmere cardigans. (Not that there's anything wrong with that!)

According to Nigella, this is the sort of thing she whips up in the wee, small hours, after stumbling home on her Stella McCartney kitten heels, from whatever über-posh watering holes she frequents. Her original version calls for bacon, as well as eggs and cheese, but I had veggie sausages in the fridge, so we opted for those instead. Her recipe also calls for cooked potatoes, which she would have us keep always at the ready - which my mum usually did, actually - but I simply nuked a few in the microwave, because I am too lazy to plan ahead. The sauce can be made with whatever vegan cheddar you have available; I had a bit of Daiya, and some rather awful slices, which were good for nothing on their own, but when combined with other ingredients turned out to be really delicious. (The dog eagerly licked out the saucepan: a clear sign of approval!)

The Sausagey Bit

Ingredients
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 1 large onion, roughly chopped
~ 5 mid-sized potatoes, baked, cooled, and cut into chunks
~ 3-4 vegan sausages, sliced into 1" rounds (I used Field Roast)
~ 1/2 tsp. each: poultry seasoning, smoked paprika
~ A few grinds of black pepper

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and coat a mid-size casserole with cooking spray.
~ In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil, and saute the onions on medium heat about 3 minutes.
~ Gradually add the potatoes and sausages, stirring with each addition, then sprinkle the whole business with the poultry seasoning, paprika, and pepper.
~ Continue cooking for about 15 minutes, flipping with a spatula every few minutes so that things have a chance to get nicely browned on the bottom (Nigella would probably say "on their bottoms," because that's what she's like).
~ Turn off the heat and allow to sit while (whilst) you make...

The Saucy Bit
~ 1 tbsp. olive oil (or other oil)
~ 1 tbsp. flour
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, Coleman's dry mustard
~ 3 cups plain, unsweetened soy milk, heated
~ 1 tsp. Marmite (or 2 tsp. HP, Daddy's, vegan Worcestershire, etc.)
~ 2 cups grated vegan cheddar (I used a combination of Daiya and FYH, because that's what I had)

Directions
~ In a saucepan, heat the oil over low heat, then stir in the flour, salt, and Coleman's mustard to make a roux. Add the Marmite, and a splash of the soy milk and stir until smooth, about a minute.
~ Begin gradually adding the soy milk and cheese in batches, stirring with each addition to prevent lumps.
~ When all the milk and all the cheese has been added and everything is smooth and lovely, cook the sauce a minute or two more, then give one last whisk and turn off the heat.

And now...
~ Tip the potato/sausage mixture into your casserole, and pour the cheezy sauce over the top, making sure that it's evenly distributed.
~ Sprinkle the top with a little extra paprika, then bake at 450 for 20 minutes, until browned and bubbly.
~ Allow to sit about 5 minutes before serving, all on its own, or - if you are gluttons, as are we - with some nice, crusty toast and a Bloody Mary. (You know that Nigella would want it that way!)

Simple Stewed Apples

2010-11-28T03:00:00.000-05:00

Tsk! Look at this apple. He is so well and truly stewed that I doubt he'll remember any of this in the morning. I propose a more wholesome, family-friendly approach to the stewing of this ubiquitous fall/winter fruit, and it's a particularly nice way to use up apples that are just a bit past their prime. (Alas, perhaps that's what's driven this poor fellow to drink; how much better for all concerned had he simply consented to become a lovely side dish! But I digress.) I usually make stewed fruit to accompany breakfast foods like pancakes or French toast; if allowed to cool slightly, it would also be a good topping for ice cream. Unlike most recipes - if this can be called a "recipe" with any justice - mine doesn't add any sugar, so it's not overly sweet, and makes a nice accompaniment to a wintry dinner like chickpea cutlets, mashed potato, etc. (In fact, I mixed some leftovers from Thanksgiving brunch in with that evening's roasted vegetables, where they met with a universally positive reception.)

Simple Stewed Apples

Ingredients
~ 6-8 apples, cored and chopped (I never peel them, and neither should you!)
~ 2 tbsp. Earth Balance, or other vegan margarine
~ 1/2 tsp. each: cinnamon, salt

Directions
~ In a large skillet, melt the margarine over medium-high heat and add the chopped apples.
~ Add the cinnamon and salt, stir, and then cover the pan.
~ Turn the heat to medium-low, and cook about 25-30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so. You want them to have a chance to get just a little brown around the edges, without letting them stick to the pan. If things do get a little sticky, you can add a few tablespoons of water or apple juice to deglaze the pan.
~ Serve hot alongside whatever you like; this is also nice with pears, or in a combination.

Sausage, Kale and White Bean Cassoulet

2010-11-27T03:00:00.000-05:00

"Welcome to the world of Posh Nosh. For me, this is a dream come true. All my life, I've wanted to bring extraordinary food to ordinary people...I once ate a Flayed Swordfish And Guava Millefeuille that reminded me, in one sweet mouthful, of a Sea Interlude by Britten, [and] a painting by Turner..."
~ Simon Marchmont

I must confess that I'm totally cheating with today's post, because I haven't actually made this yet. (But I swear that I shall!) The idea came from one of my tried-and-true fonts of culinary inspiration, the food section in The Guardian. Over the years, this invaluable resource has yielded many interesting meals, often with a pleasingly Posh Nosh vibe (http://www.bbc.co.uk/comedy/poshnosh). This is particularly true when I undertake the veganization of some outrageously meat-laden offering submitted by the likes of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, or that consummate wanker, Jay "if it hasn't suffered in some smugly baroque, hideous, and completely unnecessary manner, I flatly refuse to eat it" Rayner.

In this particular case, my eye was caught by Allegra McEvedy's Sausage, Kale and Flageolet Cassoulet, with its promise of hearty, kale-filled goodness. (NB that I don't mean to tar Ms. McEvedy - oh, let's do call her Allegra, shall we? - with the same brush as Simon and Minty Marchmont; it's just such cheap and easy fun to take the piss out of pretentious foodies.) Anyway, she describes this dish as "not a true cassoulet, but a variation on the pig'n'beans theme," and I decided to go her one better by means of a deviation from that theme, using Field Roast sausages, and canned white beans (which I always have on hand). Anyway, I got as far as typing it up with my substitutions, and then Thanksgiving hit, so the actual culinary experiment will have to wait for later this week. That said, I have high hopes, so in the meantime - assuming you have any time - go ahead and give it a try, and let me know what you think. I'll update this post after I've done the same (hopefully in the next few days)!

Sausage, Kale and White Bean Cassoulet

Ingredients
~ 1 cup raw cashews
~ 1 cup plain, unsweetened soy milk, heated almost to boiling
~ 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
~ 1 package Field Roast smoked apple sage sausages, cut into 1.5" pieces
~ 4 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 heaped tbsp. dried, ground rosemary
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, sage, marjoram
~ Fresh black pepper to taste
~ 1 large or 2 small red onions, roughly chopped
~ 2 15 oz. cans navy, cannellini, or other white beans
~ 4 cups vegetable stock
~ 1 bunch kale, stripped, cleaned and (as Margery Kempe might put it) "hewyn...smal [for] the pott"
~ Handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped (about a 1/2 cup)

Directions
~ Soak the raw cashews in the hot soy milk for at least 30 minutes, then puree until smooth and set aside.
~ In a deep, heavy-based pot, heat the olive oil and fry the sausage pieces over medium heat, until golden brown.
~ Add the garlic, rosemary, salt, sage, marjoram, and pepper, and cook about a minute.
~ Add the chopped onions, stir to combine, then cover the pot and turn the heat to low. Cook gently for 15 minutes, until the onions are soft and slightly browned, stirring occasionally.
~ Pour in the broth and the drained beans, then bring to what Allegra calls "a relaxed simmer," and cook for around 20 minutes.
~ Stir in the chopped kale and the pureed cashew mixture, mix well, then cover the pot and simmer for 10 minutes.
~ Remove the lid and simmer about 10 minutes more; stir in the chopped parsley, and serve hot.

The Best Mushroom Gravy

2010-11-26T03:00:00.001-05:00

Okay, you guys: this is absolutely, hands-down, and without any question whatsoever the best mushroom gravy I have ever tasted. (As an added bonus, it is also idiot simple.) I was getting ready to start the gravy for Thanksgiving dinner, having purchased the necessaries for my mushroom gravy, when it occurred to me that a smooth texture might be nice, as opposed to the somewhat chunkier rendition I usually make. It struck me that - just as many curries begin with a paste of onions, chilis, etc. - making a puree of the vegetables might be the best approach. What can I say? The end result was like the distillation of shroominess; the very essence of rich, earthy, autumnal goodness. Suffice to say that I've found my new go-to recipe. The menu for today's lunch? A mountain of stuffing, surrounded by an ocean of gravy; possibly augmented by a small, offshore island of cranberry sauce. Yum.

Happy (day after) Thanksgiving!

The Best Mushroom Gravy

Ingredients
~ 1 10 oz package mushrooms, roughly chopped (I used babybellas)
~ 1 onion, roughly chopped
~ 2 tbsp. garlic, minced
~ 1 tsp. each: sage, marjoram, rosemary
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 2 tbsp. olive oil
~ 2 tbsp. flour
~ 2 tbsp. Better Than Bouillon "Not Chicken" flavor (a product with which I am currently obsessed: get some!)
~ 6 cups strong mushroom broth (commercial, or made by soaking dried mushrooms in 6 cups boiling water for at least an hour, then straining. I did this with black trumpets, and it rocked)

Directions
~ Place the mushrooms, onion, garlic, and seasonings in a food processor, and reduce to a paste.
~ In a large, deep skillet or saucepan, heat the olive oil, then add the mushroom puree. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.
~ Bring the mushroom broth to a boil, then stir in the bouillon, and mix thoroughly. (If you've made your own mushroom broth, discard the soaked mushrooms, or reserve them for some other use; they won't be needed here.)
~ Add the flour to the mushroom mixture, stir to thicken, then gradually begin adding the mushroom/bouillon broth, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Continue cooking, stirring often, for about 10 minutes, or until you have a smooth, brown, deliciously mushroomy gravy.
~ Serve hot, on top of everything.

Happy Thanksgiving

2010-11-25T03:00:00.001-05:00

It was recently pointed out - by no less a personage than Isa Chandra Moskowitz - that an inordinate number of people report having become vegetarians around this time of year. I found this intriguing, since it was the case for me as well; I was 16 years old, my oldest brother had recently died in an accident, and I was Thinking Seriously About Life. I still have vivid memories of taking a very long walk on a very cold day, girding myself for what I knew would be the (mostly) well-meant onslaught of "You won't eat even a little?" and "But you always loved the wing/skin/drumstick!" from my large, extended family. I think I had bread, salad, spanakopita, mashed potatoes, and wine - my parents were cool like that - but I was happy, and in the years to come there were always lots of good things for me to eat. (Of course, I ate dairy then, so it wasn't such a big deal: butter? Cheese? Bring 'em on!)

Anyway, I've been thinking about this phenomenon, and I doubt very much that it's coincidental. Isn't it just possible that the fact that so many people stop eating meat at this time of year might have something to do with all those construction paper handprint cut-outs, cardboard pictures of jolly turkeys in sober 17th century outfits, and songs about Tom Turkey, etc. to which we were exposed as small children? Think about it: no other holiday goes so far out of its way to anthropomorphize the "main course." Many people eat turkey for Christmas dinner, but there isn't anything close to the same rhetoric surrounding it. Similarly, roast beef is often featured at Christmas, but there aren't arch, winking rhymes about cattle hiding from the farmer to avoid being surrounded by horseradish and Yorkshire puddings. And does The New York Times food column feature recipes for "Leg of Lamb of God" as Easter approaches? Certainly not! That would be considered - dare I say it? - tasteless. And yet, there's poor Tom, a-cold in the grocer's freezer, at least until he's served forth on Thanksgiving, with the handprint facsimile of his living self right there on the refrigerator in which he was so recently defrosted.

Taking all this into account, Thanksgiving is clearly the perfect "gateway holiday" to vegetarianism, because it's the one most overtly associated with food. Most holidays include special/traditional delicacies, but Thanksgiving positions the big meal as the centerpiece, in a very particular way. In the absence of a virgin birth, a resurrection, an overdressed conifer, one day's supply of oil lasting eight (thereby necessitating the consumption of potato pancakes), rabbits laying colored eggs (?!), rampant consumerism, and/or (in Lucy Van Pelt's eloquent description) "deck them halls...and Jingle Bells, and Santa Claus and ho-ho-ho, and mistletoe, and presents for pretty girls," Thanksgiving is ideally positioned to reinvent what that big meal consists of.

Somehow, a day that was ostensibly set aside for thankfulness, and for thoughtful reflection on the good things in our lives, has become inextricably bound up in the American consciousness with the slaughter and consumption of millions of turkeys, to the degree that it's often referred to as "turkey day." The US president's annual "pardon" of a turkey - which my Canadian partner thought was some sort of weird joke until he actually saw this strange farce enacted on the news - only exacerbates the sense of surrealistic atavism attached to the cultural imperative of eating turkeys on the last Thursday of November. Aside from one's assumption that this particular turkey must be, well, "connected," in order to stay connected, it's impossible to ignore that something is very wrong here, and it's a something that I've often remarked on in the past few years, to wit: that the "traditional" presence of the dead turkey trumps the living relatives who may have objections to its miserable, factory-farmed excuse for a life, terrible death, and mindless, mass consumption (optimally at rock-bottom prices; adding economic insult to physical injury). If I had that proverbial dollar for every vegetarian who has reported feeling less welcome than a headless, defrosted, roasted corpse at their "family" dinner, I would be a much wealthier woman than I am right now.

I guess what I'm trying to say, in my circuitous fashion, is that there are better ways of expressing thankfulness than contributing to the needless exploitation and slaughter of sentient creatures who have been artificially produced for the purpose. (And for those inclined to argue that turkeys are "stupid," I would respectfully submit that if intelligence were the criterion for which side of the dinner plate one occupies, we'd all be eating a lot more "long pig.") If the American mythos is associated with anything, it's with discarding old, trite, oppressive ideas and social structures, and being brave enough to start afresh with the ingredients on hand. The founding philosophy of the original settlers whom this holiday purportedly honors was that outmoded pieties (such as the necessity for turkey on the last Thursday of November) had ceased to serve the needs of the faithful; this can be as easily applied to patriotism/nationalism as to religion.

So. I can think of no more appropriate occasion on which to say, "Fuck 'turkey day.' I can reclaim this holiday to be thankful for what's meaningful to me, in my value system, and that has absolutely nothing to do with dead poultry."

Let freedom ring!

Baked Winter Squash

2010-11-24T03:00:00.000-05:00

First of all, I have to note that today, November 24th, is not only the 54th anniversary of my partner's parents, Jim and Mary Lou (who remain adorably and inspiringly in love), but the 6th anniversary of our beloved doggie, Lucy, coming to join our family. All in all, an auspicious date, and one with an important connection to today's post, since my middle son - one of Lucy's first and very best friends - loves winter squash. Acorn, pumpkin, butternut...rather like myself with bread stuffing, give him a bowlful, and he's happy to make a meal of it. In fact, there's a family story about him being at my parents' house, aged about six; upon seeing some leftover squash in the refrigerator, he asked if he could have a bowl for an after-school snack. My mom noticed that he was eating it very slowly, and asked if he'd prefer something else, to which he replied, "Oh, no, it's so good; I'm just savoring it!" At various times, I experiment with different preparations - for example, the great recipe for "Hungarian Squash" in the original Laurel's Kitchen, and winter squash in any coconut curry is a match made in heaven - but at the holidays, baked and mashed with the simplest of seasonings is the way to go for us; as the saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." (As per usual, this makes enough for a family meal, so go ahead and halve it if you like; then again, who ever complained about leftovers? NB that you could also apply the same treatment to pumpkins, or to any other winter squash; we just happen to like butternut!)

Baked Butternut (or other winter) Squash

Ingredients
~ 2 large butternut squashes, halved and seeded
~ 1/4 cup olive oil
~ 1/4 cup maple syrup
~ Salt and pepper to taste
~ Pinch of nutmeg
~ Earth Balance or other vegan margarine

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
~ In a bowl or beaker, combine the olive oil, maple syrup, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
~ Split the squash in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds. Score the flesh of the squash, making 1/2-inch deep cuts through it one way and then the other (in a sort of checker-board pattern).
~ Rub the skin side of the squash halves with a little extra olive oil, then rub the insides with the oil/syrup/seasoning mixture.
~ Arrange cut side up on a cookie sheet, then cover with foil, and bake at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes.
~ Remove the foil, and bake another 20-25 minutes, until the flesh is tender when pierced with a fork.
~ When the squash is cool enough to handle, use a spoon to gently scoop the flesh from the shells into a large bowl.
~ With a potato masher, mash to a pulp - isn't this fun?! - then add the amount of margarine you see fit. (I know I usually tell people how much of stuff to use, but like mashed potatoes, I see this as a matter of individual taste. We like our squash pretty "buttery" - say 3-4 tbsps. - but you may feel differently. De gustibus non est disputandum, eh?)
~ Taste for seasoning, and serve hot - remembering to savor it!

Roasted Root Vegetables

2010-11-23T03:00:00.000-05:00

Before anything else, I have to mention that today is my oldest son's birthday. As Sandy Denny once asked, "Who knows where the time goes?"; let's just say that I think we're both feeling a lot better today than we were all those years ago, and it is impossible to imagine my life without him. So: happy birthday to the first great love of my life!

Holiday Side Dish Week continues, with a dish that never fails to appear - with minor variations - at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Sweet potatoes, carrots, and onions are a constant, but after that, pretty much anything goes: brussels sprouts, beets, asparagus, cauliflower, fingerling poatoes, parsnips, even (if you happen to roll that way, which we don't) turnips....if it grows underground, chances are it will respond well to being rubbed with oil and spices and then roasted in the oven.

Roasted Root Vegetables

Ingredients
~ 1/4 cup olive oil
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, thyme, tarragon, rosemary (and/or any other herbs you may prefer)
~ A few grinds of black pepper
~ 4 large sweet potatoes, cut into chunks
~ 1 lb. carrots, cut into 2' slices on the diagonal
~ 2 large onions, coarsely chopped
~ 1 lb. asparagus, cut into 3" slices (not technically a root, but nice all the same)

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
~ Place the chopped onions, carrots and sweet potatoes on a large, rimmed baking sheet or casserole, then pour the oil/seasoning mixture over them.
~ Now (this is the fun part!), get in there with your hands and make sure that everything is well coated.
~ Cover with foil and cook about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
~ Uncover, stir, add the asparagus, and combine thoroughly with the other vegetables. Continue cooking another 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until everything is roasted to autumnal beauteousness. Serve hot.

Classic Sage and Onion Stuffing

2010-11-22T03:00:00.000-05:00

"Eked out by apple-sauce and mashed potatoes, it was a sufficient dinner for the whole family; indeed, as Mrs Cratchit said with great delight...they hadn't ate it all at last! Yet every one had had enough, and the youngest Cratchits in particular, were steeped in sage and onion to the eyebrows!"

This Thursday is, of all the good days in the year, Thanksgiving here in the US. That being the case (and since I'm hosting/cooking), this week's MoFo posts will be largely devoted to dishes that appear on my family's holiday table, year after year. Thanksgiving, as we all know, is a day set aside for the ostensible purpose of expressing our gratitude for the bountiful good fortune with which we have been blessed; this generally translates to the consumption of an enormous meal in the company of family and friends. Of course, it is also associated with genocide and/or cultural imperialism - to say nothing of the systematic slaughter of millions of turkeys, who have very little for which to be thankful - but since my theme is supposed to be traditional foodstuffs, let's just get this party started with a giant pan of baked carbohydrates, shall we?

As the reader is certainly aware, the "it" in the quote above refers not to a Thanksgiving turkey, but to a Christmas goose - which Dickens describes as "the rarest of all birds; a feathered phenomenon," and "the theme of universal admiration" in the Cratchit household - but both are traditionally accompanied by sage and onion stuffing, which gets a fair bit of attention in the text. This is as it should be, since my own favorite part of Thanksgiving dinner was always the stuffing (in our family, Christmas meant roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, and horseradish, which is another subject, for another post); if left to my own devices, I'd have happily made a meal of it, optimally surrounded by a lake of gravy. My mother's rendition was a very traditional, old-school recipe, and was always baked separately, since my restaurateur father considered cooking it inside in the bird to be unhygienic (it's also greasy and disgusting). As an adult, I've stuck with essentially the same method; I just substitute margarine for butter, and vegetable broth for the chicken stock my mom would have used. Suffice to say that if you're looking for something sophisticated or adventurous to spice up your Thanksgiving table, this is probably not the recipe for you, but "eked out" by mushroom gravy, this bread stuffing remains one of the tastes of my childhood, and I can still make a meal of it!

Classic Sage and Onion Stuffing

Ingredients
~ One large loaf good white bread, lightly toasted and crumbled (baguettes are nice)
~ 3 tbsp. olive oil
~ 3 tbsp. Earth Balance
~ One ginormous onion (or two normal-sized), chopped
~ 4-5 stalks celery, diced fine
~ 2 tbsp. minced garlic
~ 1 tsp. each: salt, sage, marjoram, parsley
~ 1/2 tsp. each: thyme, rosemary
~ Lots of black pepper
~ 2-3 cups vegetable broth (I like Imagine or Better Than Bouillon "No Chicken" flavor).

Directions
~ Preheat the oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit, and coat a casserole with cooking spray.
~ In a large, deep pot, heat the oil and margarine and add the onions. Cook over medium heat until turning golden, about 5 minutes.
~ Add the celery, garlic, and seasonings, and cook 5 minutes more, until the vegetables are tender and fragrant.
~ Stir in the toasted, crumbled bread and mix thoroughly, then add as much of the vegetable broth as you need to get a moist stuffing consistency (you probably won't need it all, but do bear in mind that it will dry out as it bakes, so it should look a bit mushier than you might imagine it ought to do).
~ Cover with foil and bake at 375 for 20 minutes.
~ Raise the heat to 400, remove the foil, baste the top with a little extra broth, and cook another 15-20 minutes, until the top is golden and crispy. Serve hot with all the usual trimmings (gravy, cranberry sauce, mashed potato, Tiny Tim, etc.).